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아르누보 이미지의 드레스 디자인 연구 - 장식 디테일 사례를 중심으로 -

A Study on the Dress Design Using Art Nouveau Image - Focus on the Decoration Detail Case -

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주제분류생활과학

초록

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail.The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows:First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects.Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(appliqu), gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail.The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows:First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects.Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(appliqu), gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

참고문헌 (37)

  1. 조규화, "패션미학", pp.31~ (2004), 수학사
  2. "2000", 1 F, S의 장 폴 골티에(Jean Paul Gaultier), 2001, pp.2 F, W의 돌체&가바나(D&G), 안나 몰리나리(Anna Molinari), 2002 S[DOI]
  3. S. T. マドセン, "アルヌボ" (1967), 美術公論社
  4. "The Books of Kells: 아일랜드에서 8세기까지 제작된 켈트인의 복음서", ~
  5. 조규화, "op.cit., p.104", ~
  6. S. T. マドセン, "アル ヌヴォ", pp.22~28 (1967), 美術公論社
  7. 장순찬, "Art Nouveau Fashion", 석사, pp.1985
  8. Gerard Durozoi, "Toulouse-Lautrec" (1992), Studio Editions.
  9. 南靜, "パリ モ―ドの200年", pp.88~ (1990), 文化出版局
  10. "Ibid., p.88", ~
  11. Madge Garland, "A History of Fashion", pp.219~ (1975), Morrow
  12. 南靜, "パリ モ―ドの200年", pp.82~ (1975), 文化出版局
  13. Richard Martin, "Haute couture", pp.49~ (1995), Metropolitan Museum of Art
  14. "미국인 화가 찰스 다나 깁슨(Charles Dana Gibson: 1863∼1945)이 즐겨 그린 의상 스타일", ~
  15. 南靜, "パリ モ―ドの200年", pp.95~ (1975), 文化出版局
  16. Cecil Saint-Laurent, "Histoire Imprevue De Dessous Feminins", pp.23~ (1988), Herscher
  17. "Ibid., p.95", ~
  18. 조규화, "op.cit., p.106", ~
  19. KimMi-Young, "A Study on Art Nouveau Style Fashion Design", 패션 비즈니스, 7(6), pp.1~9 (2004), 한국패션비즈니스학회
  20. Romain de Tirtoff, "エルテ : The Complete Graphic Works", pp.49~ (1985), 講談社
  21. 장순찬, "Art Nouveau Fashion", 석사, pp.1985
  22. 高階秀爾, "世紀末藝術", pp.120~ (1973), 紀伊國屋書店
  23. "Fashion History"[URL]
  24. Lydia Kamitsis, "Vionnet", pp.14~ (1996), Thames and Hudson
  25. Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta, "Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion-Second Edition", pp.237~ (1998), Fairchild Books
  26. Georges Lepape, "French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925)" (1979), Dover
  27. 服裝文化協會, "服裝大百科事典-上卷", pp.219~ (1976), 文化出版局
  28. Sharon Lee Tate, "Inside Fashion Design-Second Edition", pp.147~ (1984), Arper & Row
  29. 服裝文化協會, "服裝大百科事典-上卷", pp.630~ (1976), 文化出版局
  30. R. Tunrer Wilcox, "The Mode in Costume", pp.321~ (1958), Charels Scribners Sons
  31. Helen L, Brockman, "The Theory of Fashion Design", pp.294~ (1965), John Wiley & Sons. Inc
  32. 南靜, "パリ モ―ドの200年", pp.94~ (1990), 文化出版局
  33. Romain de Tirtoff, "Designs by Erté: Fashion Drawings and Illustrations from “Harper's Bazar”", pp.21~ (1976), Dover
  34. "에르테(Erté)는 사실 연대가 좀 뒤지지만 그의 작품 경향은 훨씬 후 까지도 가장 유미적이고 쾌락적이며 감각적인 아르누보의 성격을 보이고 있다", ~
  35. J. Anderson Black, "세계 패션사", pp.24~ (1997), 자작아카데미
  36. Claire Wilcox, "Modern Fashion in Detail", pp.55~ (1991), Victoria & Albert Museum
  37. Constance Howard, "Twentieth-century embroidery in Great Britain", pp.34~ (1981), Batsford

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