에르메스(Hermès) 여성 패션의 디자이너별 표현 특성 -마틴 마르지엘라, 장 폴 골티에, 크리스토프 르메르, 나데주 바니 시뷸스키를 중심으로-

Abstract

Background This study is purposed to examine the feature of designers' work inherited from Hermès women’s fashion and look into an reinterpreting process of its house legacy and spirits according to changing designer. Methods For the method, literature review and case study by the designer collection were taken. In details, first, Hermès timeline and house spirit were examined through literature. Second, case study was carried out with analysis of works from Martin Margiela, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christophe Lemaire to contemporary designer Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski. Analyzed characteristics were reviewed about concept and silhouette, color, material and pattern, and accessorial attachment according to classified designers. Lastly, difference and common point reflected on their works were examined. Result Research results are as follows. Martin Margiela expressed the high end and graceful basic items with roomy silhouette and tailoring-based basic items and achromatic color. Jean Paul Gaultier gave the sexy and dynamic modern female images to design by integrating the equestrian brand legacy into many themes and reinterpreting it with its wits and individuality. Christophe Lemaire represented the elegant and refined images to design with quality material and diverse patterns, concentrating on nomad spirit. Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski proceeded to contemporary elegance with modernistic and casual emotion, dynamic tone, and refined detail. Conclusion The above examination showed that Hermès women’s fashion kept showing changed renovation in connection with each designer's view point but it also took over the unique classic and luxurious elegance based upon brand spirit and heritage on its own. Such an effort can be a possible resolution to lead Korean fashion brand to the prestige good worldwide as secured brand spirit inheritance, creative reinterpretation of brand legacy, high end quality, and buildup of trust.