단기 준비운동 방법이 스포츠 클라이머 손가락 굴곡근의 등척성 근지구력 및 등반 수행능력에 미치는 영향
Acute Effect of Different Warm-up Methods on Isometric Muscle Endurance of the Finger Flexors and Climbing Performance in Sport Climbers
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[목적] 본 연구의 목적은 스포츠 클라이밍 클럽의 홀드 형태에 따른 팔꿉 관절의 각도별 근력, 근지구력, 운동수행능력에 폼 롤러, 탄성 밴드, 정적 스트레칭이 미치는 영향을 규명하는 것이다. [방법] 본 연구의 대상은 5.11d의 등반난이도를 오를 수 있는 9명의 클라이머가 참여하였다. 준비운동으로 근막이완, 선-피로운동, 정적스트레칭을 적용하였다. 근력은 악력과 배근력으로, 근지구력은 매달리기시간으로 측정하였다. 운동수행능력은 등반거리와 등반시간으로 측정하였다. 준비운동의 차이를 확인하기 위해 반복측정분산분석을 수행하였으며, 대비검증을 통해 처치 간 유의한 차이를 확인하였다. [결과] 본 연구의 결과, 스포츠클라이밍 시 준비운동으로서 근막이완, 선-피로운동, 정적스트레칭은 근력에 영향을미치지 않았다. 근지구력은 오픈홀드 90°에서 정적스트레칭이 유의하게 감소하였으며, 크림프와 슬로프홀드 180°에서 선-피로운동이 유의하게 감소하였다. 또한 준비운동 형태에 따른 운동수행능력에는 영향이 없었다. [결론] 본 연구에서 클라이머에게 적용한 준비운동으로 근막이완, 선-피로운동, 정적스트레칭은 근력과 근지구력, 운동수행능력에 직접적인 영향을 미치지 않았기 때문에, 추후 연구에서는 홀드의 형태, 팔꿈치 각도, 코어와 하체 근력, 등반 자세 등을 고려한 복합적인 준비운동 연구가 진행되어야 할 것으로 생각한다.
Abstract
PURPOSE The purpose of this study was to investigate whether foam roller, preexhaustion, and static stretching had any effect on isometric muscular endurance of the finger flexors and climbing performance in sport climbers. METHODS Nine sport climbers who were able to perform at a climbing difficulty of 5.11d, were included in this study. Warm-up exercise consisted of myofascial release, pre-exhaustion exercises, and static stretching. Grip and back strengths were measured for muscular strength, and isometric muscular endurance of the finger flexors was measured as the time spent hanging on each hold according to the angle of the elbow joint. Repeated measures of ANOVA were performed to confirm the difference in treatment, and a significant difference between groups was confirmed by contrast test. RESULTS Myofascial release, pre-exhaustion, and static stretching before climbing did not affect muscle strength. However, the static stretching exercise significantly decreased isometric muscle endurance of the finger flexor at 90° open hold, and the pre-exhaustion exercise significantly decreased the hanging time at 180° crimp and slope grips. There was no effect on climbing performance according to the type of warm-up exercise. CONCLUSIONS Our findings suggested that various warm-up exercises did not directly affect muscle strength, muscular endurance, and climbing performance in sport climbers. Thus, we suggest that future research on complex warm-up exercises considering climbing postures should be conducted.
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