李漁의 服裝論 小考 ― ≪閑情偶寄⋅聲容部≫의 ＜治服＞을 중심으로

Abstract

Li Yu, who lived between Late-Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty, was a famous drama theorist, writer, thinkers, aesthetician in Ming and Qing Dynasties. “Xian Qing Ou Ji(≪闲情偶寄≫)” was one of the most important works in his life. Li Yu’s “Xian Qing Ou Ji” has been paid attention since being published. The discussion of its opera theory in certain chapters in which Ciand Qu Department(＜词曲部＞), Exercise and Performance Department (＜演习部＞), and Voice and Appearance Department (＜声容部＞) is fine and original, insightful and they have a far-reaching impact. Li Yu’s thought of dress aesthetics is mainly concentrated in Voice and Appearance Department (＜声容 部＞). From the dress ideology in “XianQing Ou Ji”, with times and environment which this book is published and author’s special life experience. The full text is divided into three parts: foreword, text, and conclusion. The foreword mainly introduces the significance of the subjects for this article, the research angle. Beginning with the problems he put on dress is of rich and deep the classical dress aesthetics. In his thoughts, human plays a leading role in dressing. Dress will never be independent system beyond body. It is beautiful only when it is matched with skin color, figure, and social status. In Li Yu’s opinion dress ideologies are natural and harmonious. According to his views, beauty lies in naturalness. The more nature the women appear to be when they’re wearing the clothes, the more beautiful they are. What’s more, this beaut still can properly conceal the fault of the women dressed, which make more contribution to the creation of the women’s natural beauty. Also he proposed a principle on ladies elegant and fit made an aesthetic analysis of black color. Li Yu especially admired the color of cyan, which he thought was proper for the rich or the poor, the old or the young, the dark or the fair skin. From the whole view his dress aesthetics are moderate and harmonious and natural. The conclusion excavates Li Yu’s unique contribution to the dress aesthetics theory. And summarizes the characteristics of dress ideology theory in “XianQing Ou Ji” and explores its influence on the dress theory of later generation and points out its limitation.