복식과 예술로 본 홍산문화와 고조선 제의문화

Abstract

The most important factor that dominates an ancient society is religion. Politics and culture in ancient society is made around religion because religion holds a dominant position than politics. Therefore, religion at the period and the culture of ancestral rituals derived are the original form of national history and culture. The origins of culture of ancestral rituals in Gojoseon must be found from former ages. An example of this can be the ‘Sinsi(神市)’ era or the ‘Sinsi’ culture. The excavated remains that look back into the period are widespread in the academia. In addition, domestic and foreign excavation reports and researches are accumulated. Therefore, abundant data that can prove the culture of ancestral rituals in ancient history are being reported. This also overcomes the academia’s stereotype that denies not only dress history and art history but also ancient history. Interpretation of related literature and archeological specimens show that plates in jade found in ‘Hongsan Culture Remains’ in the shapes of people and animals served a role as some type of medium in ancestral rites. On the other hand, plates in jade found in normal tombs as fashionable ornaments and unpractical tools were physical symbolization of authority and social status. Moreover, the possibility for the plates in jade as decorations in the dress code of Hongsan culture serving as symbols of the highest governmental authority is analyzed. With the development of bronze wares, jade ornaments in normal life became gradually replaced by bronze decorations in Gojoseon, the successor of the Hongsan culture. However, in funeral rituals, use of jade ornaments shows a steady increase until late Gojoseon. Circular ornaments and decorative buttons widely used in the dress code of Gojoseon are interpreted as expression of the light and heat of the sun along the tradition of sun-worshipping belief of the heavenly gods in dress codes. The decoration method that Gojoseon people used have been inherited to diverse countries after the collapse of Gojoseon. The method developed in accord with the characteristics of each country. After the collapse of Gojoseon, many countries including the Three Kingdoms inherited the attire and decorating styles and continued on the splendid style that uses gold and silver, the metals of value superior to that of bronze. Moreover, instead of using ornaments, they used printing, weaving, and embroidery. If they did use the ornaments, they combined it together with the aforementioned methods to represent splendor. The epitome of such is the attire that can be seen in ancient tomb mural paintings of Goguryeo, in which geometric patterns incorporating symmetrical and asymmetrical techniques and decoration within rules are included. As such, style in shell button made of jade and bronze has been used as an ornament in a variety of means even before Gojoseon. Its nature lies in the tradition of the sun-worshipping belief in the heavenly gods. Since then, it took place as an important form of ornament, spreading to many different countries and the Three Kingdoms. Comparison and contrast of hung ornaments and buttons found in these ancient Korean attire and examination of diachronic transmission show that circular and leaf-like decorations express a lively will to make formative art and a dynamic and vigorous emotion of Korean ancestral rituals. Moreover, this identity must have a solid status as an inherent cultural element.