≪玉臺新詠≫에 나타난 중고시기 여성의 형상 －의복, 首飾과 장신구를 중심으로－

Abstract

The purpose of this thesis is to reconstruct women's figure in certain time, through the poetry in ≪Yu Tai Xin Yong≫. ≪Yu Tai Xin Yong≫ is a collection of Chinese poetry which maily dealed with women's lives. Clothing, hairstyle, hair ornaments(首飾) and accessories are also a part of their figure. First of all, among 667 poems in the book, certain poems related with those subjects were selected. Furthermore, research data about each category helped to analyze women's figure in the poems. According to the book, reconstitution of typical women's figure in The Middle Ages[中古] is as follows: A soft and thin silk was the most common fabric. There were clothing such as Ru(襦), Shan(衫), Gui(袿), Pao(袍), Pa Fu(袙複), Liang Dang(裲襠), et ceteta. Ru(襦) was usually short. Such as head kerchief, shawl, scarf, towel, handkerchief and so forth were essential costumes. Socks and shoes made of silk were preferred, and clogs with high heel was popular. Straps, that was used to gather clothes up, not only was high quality pres many wishes of love. Also people in this period already concerned about fragrance of clothing. In this period, it was very common to make fabric or clothing smell fragrant by using tumeric scent(鬱金香), potpourri scent(百花香) and so on. In the area of hair style, bun(髻) was most common. Among many kinds of bun, high bun(雲髻, 高髻) or Wo Duo-bun(倭墮髻) was in vogue at the time. There were two main types of ornamental hairpin: Zan(簪), Chai(釵). The material was gold, jade, green jadeite, Imbricate tortoise shell(玳瑁) and etc. They also usually used Bu Yao(步搖) as a kind of ornamental hairpin. There were also other accessories with jewels such as gold or pearl and ect.: the necklace, the bracelet, the ring, the jade wearings(佩玉).