Mimeticism and the Basis of Value: Toward a Theory of Fashion Marketing
0
조회
0
다운로드
6
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
The objective of this paper is to propose a theory offashion marketing which directly addresses the social processesthat consumers use to associate images and meaning to articlesof fashion. By doing so, the theory will address the means bywhich fashion originates and diffuses through society, animportant issue of concern to fashion marketers. The role of taste in fashion involves taste acting as themeans of influence between others and one’s fashionunderstanding and subsequent fashion choices. Taste, therefore,is an evaluation of what is desirable or acceptable asdetermined by the opinions of others. Taste has broad-reachingeffects on the desires and purchases of individuals. Arguably,taste directly affects consumers’ assessments of most, if notall, fashion choices. Taste, however, does not have anindividually based origin, but is based on the imitation ofothers. The role played by clothing in the communication/construction of identity is widely accepted today. Within thisenvironment, a change in one’s possessions seemingly can leadto a change in one’s self. The role played by many products,therefore, appears to be to act as building blocks consumerscan use to construct a desired self. Although many productsappear to be utilized in the communication/construction ofone’s identity, no products are able to fulfill this role to theextent possible through apparel. Taste acts as the conduit through which fashion acceptanceis transmitted between individuals and through social groupingsand operates primarily through the imitation of fashion adoptedby others. A critical issue which presents itself whenexamining the imitation of fashion is “what is being imitated?”Fashion imitation actually involves attempts to acquire themeaning associated with the fashion. Girard suggests that themeaning acquired with the imitation of fashion consists of thedesirable qualities possessed by the individual or group ofindividuals whose fashion is being imitated. Imitation occurs,therefore, because fashion becomes associated with those whowear it and comes to be viewed as a reflection of them. Given the role of fashion in the construction/communication ofone’s self, consumption ultimately becomes competitive. Indeed,imitation of others whose selves appear desirable can be viewed as a way to acquire the desirable qualities of theother. This is the essence of mimetic desire. According to Girard, and as supported by past fashionmarketing research, desire does not possess an individuallybased origin. In other words, desire for a specific fashion doesnot arise from an individual’s privately developed tastes. Instead, individuals’ desires and likewise their tastes possessexternally based origins – the basis of individuals’ tastes andpreferences lie in the imitation of the tastes and preferencesobserved in others. A central issue of Girard’s theory is that desire is mimetic. Desire arises and gains direction from the desires of others. The desirability of a fashion to an individual is noted andestablished by the desires of another for the product. Whenanother is viewed as desiring a product (as is noted by theirdesire for the product or their ownership of the product), anindividual is alerted to the desirability of the product – afashion trend has begun. Rivals must not consist only of individuals with whom onedirectly interacts (e.g., neighbors, colleagues), they can consistof groups (e.g., reference groups), famous celebrities, orimages created through marketing activities (e.g., role modelspresented in advertising). One’s choice of rivals is anunconscious choice of those whose very essence seems to bedesirable, whose being one wants to acquire – “I want to bethat person.” The rival, therefore, does not merely serve as amodel for fashion, but as the model for tastes and desiresthemselves. The resulting desire becomes a powerful force,capable of driving the actions of an individual. The infectious nature of mimetic desire can readily be seenin the marketplace. Once the desirability of a specific fashionis communicated, such as by its acquisition and subsequentdisplay (e.g., the item is worn in a public setting) by anindividual or by its inclusion in marketing efforts (e.g.,advertising or in-store promotion), mimetic desire for the itemcan be generated in others. The fashion then, is viewed as themeans by which the attractive quality can be acquired andincorporated into one’s self. This is the essence of mimeticdesire. Indeed, mimetic desire provides the basis by whichmuch fashion diffuses in a society. The resulting rivalry between an individual in whommimetic desire has developed and the target of that desire, orthe rival, necessarily leads to an escalation of tension. First,the acquisition of a specific fashion associated with another isnot able to produce the desired results – the acquisition doesnot result in the acquisition of another’s essence. Second, theact of imitation will also have an effect on the individual being imitated. Seeing one’s fashion choices mimicked byanother, particularly one viewed as inferior, will prompt anegative response by an individual. In fact, the act of imitationwill likely be viewed a direct attack upon one’s personhood. Consequently, tension, if not violence, is a likely responsefrom being copied. In conclusion, mimetic desire appears to be a driving forcein the creation and diffusion of fashion. The infectious natureof mimetic desire provides the basis for the specificcharacteristics of the demand for fashion. The demand forfashion generally possesses little basis in the need for physicalqualities of a product, nor is based in mere imitation ofanother. Instead, its mimetic basis results in fashion playing amuch larger role in the lives of individuals and in society – arole which must be recognized by fashion marketers if theyhope to optimally satisfy the fashion needs of their customers. By truly understanding their customers, fashion marketers willfind themselves in better positions to create and provideproducts which will most likely appeal to their specificcustomer segment.
Abstract
The objective of this paper is to propose a theory offashion marketing which directly addresses the social processesthat consumers use to associate images and meaning to articlesof fashion. By doing so, the theory will address the means bywhich fashion originates and diffuses through society, animportant issue of concern to fashion marketers. The role of taste in fashion involves taste acting as themeans of influence between others and one’s fashionunderstanding and subsequent fashion choices. Taste, therefore,is an evaluation of what is desirable or acceptable asdetermined by the opinions of others. Taste has broad-reachingeffects on the desires and purchases of individuals. Arguably,taste directly affects consumers’ assessments of most, if notall, fashion choices. Taste, however, does not have anindividually based origin, but is based on the imitation ofothers. The role played by clothing in the communication/construction of identity is widely accepted today. Within thisenvironment, a change in one’s possessions seemingly can leadto a change in one’s self. The role played by many products,therefore, appears to be to act as building blocks consumerscan use to construct a desired self. Although many productsappear to be utilized in the communication/construction ofone’s identity, no products are able to fulfill this role to theextent possible through apparel. Taste acts as the conduit through which fashion acceptanceis transmitted between individuals and through social groupingsand operates primarily through the imitation of fashion adoptedby others. A critical issue which presents itself whenexamining the imitation of fashion is “what is being imitated?”Fashion imitation actually involves attempts to acquire themeaning associated with the fashion. Girard suggests that themeaning acquired with the imitation of fashion consists of thedesirable qualities possessed by the individual or group ofindividuals whose fashion is being imitated. Imitation occurs,therefore, because fashion becomes associated with those whowear it and comes to be viewed as a reflection of them. Given the role of fashion in the construction/communication ofone’s self, consumption ultimately becomes competitive. Indeed,imitation of others whose selves appear desirable can be viewed as a way to acquire the desirable qualities of theother. This is the essence of mimetic desire. According to Girard, and as supported by past fashionmarketing research, desire does not possess an individuallybased origin. In other words, desire for a specific fashion doesnot arise from an individual’s privately developed tastes. Instead, individuals’ desires and likewise their tastes possessexternally based origins – the basis of individuals’ tastes andpreferences lie in the imitation of the tastes and preferencesobserved in others. A central issue of Girard’s theory is that desire is mimetic. Desire arises and gains direction from the desires of others. The desirability of a fashion to an individual is noted andestablished by the desires of another for the product. Whenanother is viewed as desiring a product (as is noted by theirdesire for the product or their ownership of the product), anindividual is alerted to the desirability of the product – afashion trend has begun. Rivals must not consist only of individuals with whom onedirectly interacts (e.g., neighbors, colleagues), they can consistof groups (e.g., reference groups), famous celebrities, orimages created through marketing activities (e.g., role modelspresented in advertising). One’s choice of rivals is anunconscious choice of those whose very essence seems to bedesirable, whose being one wants to acquire – “I want to bethat person.” The rival, therefore, does not merely serve as amodel for fashion, but as the model for tastes and desiresthemselves. The resulting desire becomes a powerful force,capable of driving the actions of an individual. The infectious nature of mimetic desire can readily be seenin the marketplace. Once the desirability of a specific fashionis communicated, such as by its acquisition and subsequentdisplay (e.g., the item is worn in a public setting) by anindividual or by its inclusion in marketing efforts (e.g.,advertising or in-store promotion), mimetic desire for the itemcan be generated in others. The fashion then, is viewed as themeans by which the attractive quality can be acquired andincorporated into one’s self. This is the essence of mimeticdesire. Indeed, mimetic desire provides the basis by whichmuch fashion diffuses in a society. The resulting rivalry between an individual in whommimetic desire has developed and the target of that desire, orthe rival, necessarily leads to an escalation of tension. First,the acquisition of a specific fashion associated with another isnot able to produce the desired results – the acquisition doesnot result in the acquisition of another’s essence. Second, theact of imitation will also have an effect on the individual being imitated. Seeing one’s fashion choices mimicked byanother, particularly one viewed as inferior, will prompt anegative response by an individual. In fact, the act of imitationwill likely be viewed a direct attack upon one’s personhood. Consequently, tension, if not violence, is a likely responsefrom being copied. In conclusion, mimetic desire appears to be a driving forcein the creation and diffusion of fashion. The infectious natureof mimetic desire provides the basis for the specificcharacteristics of the demand for fashion. The demand forfashion generally possesses little basis in the need for physicalqualities of a product, nor is based in mere imitation ofanother. Instead, its mimetic basis results in fashion playing amuch larger role in the lives of individuals and in society – arole which must be recognized by fashion marketers if theyhope to optimally satisfy the fashion needs of their customers. By truly understanding their customers, fashion marketers willfind themselves in better positions to create and provideproducts which will most likely appeal to their specificcustomer segment.
참고문헌 (64)
- Barber, B., "Fashion in women’s clothes and the American social system", Social Forces, 31(2), pp.124~131 (1952)
- Barnard, M., "Fashion as Communication" (1996), Routledge
- Belk, R. W., "Possessions and the extended self", Journal of Consumer Research, 15(2), pp.139~168 (1988)
- Belk, R. W., "The fire of desire : A multisited inquiry into consumer passion", Journal of Consumer Research, 30(3), pp.326~351 (2003)
- Bliss, S. H., "The significance of clothes", American Journal of Psychology, 27, pp.217~226 (1916)
- Blumer, H., "Fashion. In International Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences", pp.341~345 (1968), Macmillan
- Breward, C., "The Fashion Business: Theory, Practice, Image", pp.23~35 (2000), Berg
- Burns, D. J., "The Self: Beyond the Postmodern Crisis", pp.149~167 (2006), Intercollegiate Studies Institute
- Choachatpinyo, A., "A conceptual model of the fashion process – Part 1 : The fashion transformation process model", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 6(1), pp.11~23 (2002)
- Cooper, S., "Individual and neo-tribal consumption : Tales from the Simpsons of Springfield", Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 4(5), pp.330~344 (2005)
- Crawley, A. E., "Encyclopedia of Religion and Ethics, Vol. 5", pp.40~72 (1912), Charles Scribner’s Sons
- Cumming, V., "Understanding Fashion History" (2004), Costume and Fashion Press
- Daniels, A. H., "Fashion merchandising", Harvard Business Review, 29(3), pp.51~60 (1951)
- Davis, F., "Fashion, Culture, and Identity" (1992), University of Chicago Press
- De Klerk, H., "Female consumers’ evaluation of apparel quality : Exploring the importance of aesthetics", Journal of Marketing and Management, 12(1), pp.36~50 (2008)
- Dumouchel, P., "Introduction. In Violence and Truth: On the Work of Rene Girard", pp.1~21 (1988), Stanford University Press
- Dumouchel, P., "L’Enfer des Choses" (1979), Seuil
- Dupuy, J. P., "Intersubjectivity in Economic Agents and Structures", pp.139~159 (2002), Routledge
- Easey, M., "Fashion Marketing" (2009), John Wiley & Sons
- Eicher, J.B., "Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning", pp.8~28 (1992), Berg
- Elliott, R., "Existential consumption and irrational desire", European Journal of Marketing, 31(3), pp.285~296 (1997)
- Fleming, C., "Rene Girard : Violence and Mimesis" (2004), Polity Press
- Frankfurt, H. G., "Necessity and desire", Philosophy and Phenomenological Research, 45(1), pp.1~13 (1984)
- Girard, R., "The Body Aesthetic: From Fine Art to Body Modification", pp.179~198 (2000), University of Michigan Press
- Girard, R., "Violence Renounced: Rene Girard", pp.308~320 (2000), Pandora Press
- Girard, R., "Mimesis, Masochism and Mime: The Politics of Theatricality in Contemporary French Thought", pp.87~111 (1997), University of Michigan Press
- Girard, R., "Resurrection from the Underground: Feodor Dostoevsky" (1997), Crossroad
- Girard, R., "The Scapegoat" (1986), John Hopkins University Press
- Girard, R., "Violence and the Sacred" (1979), John Hopkins University
- Golsan, R. J., "From Biblical exegesis to crisis of European modernity: Reflections on Girardian theory and its limitations", Culture, Theory & Critique, 44(2), pp.109~127 (2003)
- Golsan, R. J., "Rene Girard and Myth" (2002), Routledge
- Grahl, J., "Money as sovereignty : The economics of Michael Aglietta", New Political Economy, 5(2), pp.291~316 (2000)
- Hamerton-Kelly, R. G., "Curing Violence", pp.3~24 (1994), Polebridge Press
- Hines, T., "Fashion Marketing : Contemporary Issues" (2007), Butterworth-Heinemann
- Horn, M. J., "The Second Skin" (1968), Houghton-Mifflin
- Jarnow, J. A., "Inside the Fashion Business" (1981), John Wiley and Sons
- Jernigan, M., "Fashion Merchandising and Marketing" (1999), Prentice-Hall
- Johnson, K. K. P., "Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress", pp.1~4 (2003), Berg
- Kaiser, S. B., "The Social Psychology of Clothing : Symbolic Appearances in Context" (1997), Fairchild Publications
- Kaiser, S. B., "Inside Consumption: Consumer Motives, Goals and Desires", pp.122~143 (2005), Routledge
- King, C. W., "Reflections on Progress in Marketing" (1964), American Marketing Association
- Kottler, J. A., "Exploring and Treating Acquisitive Desire : Living in the Material World" (1999), Sage Publications
- Lang, K., "Dress, Adornment, and the Social Order", pp.322~346 (1961), John Wiley and Sons
- Livingston, P., "Models of Desire : Rene Girard and the Psychology of Mimesis" (1992), Johns Hopkins University Press
- Marr, A., "Violence and the kingdom of God", Anglican Theological Review, 80(4), pp.590~603 (1998)
- Miller, C. M., "Toward formalizing fashion theory", Journal of Marketing Research, 30(2), pp.142~157 (1993)
- Miller, V., "Consuming Religion: Christian Faith and Practice in a Consumer Culture" (2004), Continuum
- Montaigne, M. de, "The Essays of Montaigne" (1927), Oxford University Press
- Nystrom, P. H., "Economics of Fashion" (1928), Ronald Press
- Orlean, A., "Violence and Truth: On the Work of Rene Girard", pp.101~112 (1988), Stanford University Press
- Paterson, M., "Consumption and Everyday Life" (2006), Routledge
- Radcliffe-Brown, A. R., "The Andaman Islanders" (1922), Cambridge University Press
- Robinson, D. E., "The economics of fashion demand", The Quarterly Journal of Economics, 75(3), pp.376~398 (1961)
- Simmel, G., "Fashion", International Quarterly, 10, pp.130~155 (1904)
- Skerrett, K. R., "Desire and anathema : Mimetic rivalry in defense of plenitude", Journal of the American Academy of Religion, 71(4), pp.793~809 (2003)
- Solomon, M. R., "Consumer Behavior in Fashion" (2004), Prentice-Hall
- Sproles, G. B., "Fashion : Consumer Behavior Toward Dress" (1979), Burgess
- Stirling, M. C., "The Destructive Power of Religion: Violence in Judaism, Christianity, and Islam", pp.11~50 (2004), Praeger
- Thomas, W. I., "The psychology of women’s dress", The American Magazine, 67, pp.66~72 (1908)
- Vaughan, B., "The punitive consequences of consumer culture", Punishment and Society : The International Journal of Penology, 4(2), pp.195~211 (2002)
- Veblen, T. B., "The Theory of the Leisure Class" (1897), Macmillan
- Wallace, M. I., "Curing Violence" (1994), Polebridge Press
- Willoughby, E. A., "The reality of everyday life: The intersections of fashion and consumption in the creation of identity", 석사, pp.2004
- Woodward, S., "Clothing as Material Culture", pp.21~39 (2005), Berg