예술의상이란 무엇인가 -아트웨어 논의를 중심으로-
What is Art-Clothing -focused on Artwear related literature -
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초록
본 연구는 예술의상이라는 용어가 지칭하는 바의 모호성에 주목하여, 이 용어가 지니고 있는 다층적인 함의들을 총체적인 맥락에서 파악한다는 목적이 있다. 이를 위해, 아트웨어 관련 국내 외 학술논문 및 학위논문들과 주요 서적들을 수집하여 문헌 연구하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 순수미술, 디자인, 공예 등 전통적 예술 장르 간 혼합 및 혼성을 통해 통합적인 예술을 실현하기 위한 적극적인 예술 표현의 매체로서 의상이 사용되며, 장르 간의 복합적인 융합 양상들과 아티스트/디자이너/공예가의 일원화를 위시한 작가 역할의 혼성 및 작가 간의 협업을 통해 예술의상의 개념적 토대가 형성되었다. 둘째, 공예 디자인 장르에 국한되어 있던 텍스타일이 아트화되면서다양한 소재와 예술 기법들을 활용한 의상의 형을 띤 조형 실험들이 활발히 전개된 ‘미국 예술의상운동’을 위시로 예술의상이라는 예술의 한 장르가 탄생되었다. 이러한 관점에서의 예술의상은 예술가에 의해 만들어진 하나밖에 없는 유일한 것이라는 특성에 의해 패션 산업에서 제작되는 의상들과 차별점을 확립하며 전시 및 설치되는 목적으로 제작되는 특징을 가진다. 셋째, 의상이라는 매체및 개념을 매개로 하여 예술과 패션이 융합되면서 패션아트 개념을 위시로 패션 디자이너들의 작업들을 포함하는 예술의상 개념으로 확장되었다. 예술의상은 다양한 장르 간의 혼합, 작가 역할의혼성 및 협업, 예술과 패션 융합 등의 요인에 의해 다층적이고 다각적인 양상을 띠며 개념을 확장해 온 것이다.
Abstract
This study aims to understand the multilayered implications of the term art-clothing in a holistic context by drawing attention to the ambiguity of what the term refers to. For this purpose, domestic and international academic papers and major books related to Artwear were collected for literature research. The results of this study are as follows. First, the conceptual foundation of art-clothing was formed through the complex convergence of genres and the hybridization of the role of the artist to unify the artist/designer/craftsman and the collaboration between artists and designers. In this context, clothing is used as a medium of active artistic expression to realize an integrated art through mixing and blending of traditional art genres such as fine art, design, and craft. Second, as textiles, which were limited to the genre of craft design, became Textile Art, a genre of art called Artwear emerged from centering around the ‘Art to Wear movement’ in the U.S.A.. This is the period when formative experiments using various materials and artistic techniques were actively carried out in the form of clothing. Art-clothing in this perspective are differentiated from those produced by the fashion industry by the fact that they are one-of-a-kind pieces created by artists, and have the characteristics of being produced mainly for the purpose of being exhibited and installed. Third, as art and fashion were converged through the medium and concept of clothing such as the concept of Fashion Art, the concept of art-clothing was expanded to include the work of fashion designers. The multilayered and multifaceted nature of art-clothing is due to a number of factors, including the blending of different genres, the blending and collaboration of authorial roles, and the fusion of art, clothing and fashion.
참고문헌 (30)
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