제주 복식의 다름이 조선의 ‘갓’문화에 끼친 영향

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze the causes of how various hats of Jeju influenced the ‘Gat’ culture of Joseon. First of all, it was possible because Jeju had an access to different raw material, horsehair, as a by‒product from herding horses compared to the main land of Joseon. Because Jeju served horses as tributes, it was confirmed that Jeju people had freely used horsehair. Secondly, Jeju people already had hat manufacturing techniques due to shepherds who developed their skills to make hats that they use such as ‘gajuggamti(가죽감티)’, ‘tulbulps(털벌립)’, ‘jeongdong bulps(정동벌립)’, and ‘deparangi(대패랭이)’. Due to abundant raw materials and manufacturing techniques, there were cultures of making ‘Chongmoja(총모자)’, which is part of ‘Chorip(초립)’, using horsehair instead of using bamboo in Jeju. Also, they made ‘Manggun(망건)’ using horsehair, too. Lastly, the natural geographical environment of Jeju, where the port developed, enabled Jeju’s culture to affect “Gat” culture of Joseon more easily. In summary, abundant horsehair as a by‒product from cattle ranchers, the skills of Jeju people who made various hats, and the natural geographic environment of Jeju to speed the spread of culture influenced the Joseon men’s hat, “Gat”.