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19세기 말 자전거 복장 논란과 여성의 대응(들)

The Controversy over Women’s Cycling Dress and Their Responses in the Late 19th Century

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영국사학회|2021.12|영국연구 (The Korean Journal of British Studies)|제46호|pp. 103-141|DOI 10.22852/kjbs..46.202112.103

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참고문헌

키워드

Victorian Women자전거 복장합리주의 복식개혁니커보커스19세기 말 자전거빅토리아기 여성Women’s cycling dressRational Dress ReformKnickerbockersCycling in the Late 19th Century
주제분류역사학

초록

본 논문은 사상 최초로 자전거 열풍이 분 1890년대 영미권에서 여성의 자전거 복장을 두고 벌어진 논란과 이에 대한 여성들의 다양한 대응 및 전략을 탐구한다. 이를 통해, 세기말 요동치는 젠더 담론의 양상을 파악하고 초창기 페미니즘 운동의 한 단면을 드러내는 것이 목표다. 기존 연구처럼, ‘여성이 자전거를 탈 때 얼마나 바지를 입었는지’ 같은 양적 결과만을 본다면 여성과 자전거를 둘러싼 당대의 복잡한 시대상을 그려낼 수 없다. 이에 본 논문은 자전거 복장에 대한 여러 엇갈리는 주장과 반응을 두루 살피는 한편, 여성의 사이클링을 지지하면서도 바지류의 ‘합리적 복장’에는 의견이 갈리는 대목에 특히 주목했다. 19세기 말 자전거를 탄 여성 대다수가 합리적 복장을 꺼리고 치마를 입었던 것은 사실이다. 하지만 이들이 당대의 젠더 규범을 묵묵히 따랐다고 단선적으로 평가하기는 어렵다. 자전거 복장을 통해 다양한 전략을 구사했기 때문이다. 어떤 이는 ‘신여성’의 상징인 자전거를 사회적으로 ‘안전하게’ 타기 위해 치마를 입었고, 또 다른 이는 자전거를 더 널리 알리기 위한 목적으로 품위와 명예를 담보한다는 기존 여성복을 내세웠다. 그리고 소수지만 합리적 의복을 끝까지 포기하지 않은 여성도 있었다. 자전거를 발판으로 개혁복을 대중화하고 복식개혁의 저변을 확대하려는 대의를 지향한 쪽이었다. 여성에게 전에 없는 활동성을 부여한 자전거를 통해 여성의 몸을 해방하는 ‘자유의 옷’을 홍보한 이들의 목표를 고려하면, 합리적 복장으로 자전거를 탄 여성이 비율상 소수일지라도 페미니즘 역사에서 의미가 적지 않을 것이다.

Abstract

The purpose of this paper is to explore the controversy over women’s cycling dress in Great Britain and the United States during the bicycle craze which started at the end of the 19th century and to find the various responses of women cyclists to it, in order to understand the aspects of the early feminist movement. Therefore, this paper examined several conflicting arguments about women’s cycling dress. It was the skirt that remained the dominant form of dress adopted by women cyclists at the turn of the century. However, it is difficult to conclude that women cyclists followed or maintained the gender norms just because they adopted traditional clothing or gave up ‘rational dress’ for bicycling. This is because they used various strategies through bicycling dress. Some wore skirts to ride “safely” a bicycle as a symbol of a ‘new woman’, while others insisted on conventional clothing that signalled femininity and respectability in order to promote cycling to women more widely. And there were also a few women who stuck to rational dress to the end. They strove to expand dress reform movement using women’s cycling dress as a foothold. Even if there are small number of women cyclists in rational dress, their cause is significant in feminist history.

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