영국 헨리 8세 시대 의복에 관한 사회적 인식 ―1510년대를 중심으로―
Social Recognition of Apparel in the Early Period (1510s) of Henry VIII
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초록
1510년대는 영국의 의복법 입법 역사에서 매우 특별한 시기였다. 1510년대 초반에 3개의 의복법이 만들어졌고 1개의 의복법이 입법에 실패하여, 영국 역사 전체에서 가장 빈도가 높게 의복법이 제정되었다. 그러나 이런 특성에도 불구하고 이 주제는 아직까지 제대로 연구되지 않았다. 이 논문에서는 이당시의 의복법들에 근거하여 의복에 관한 사회적 인식과 당시의 사회계층들의 위상을 분석하였다. 이 분석 결과는 오늘날의 우리에게 친숙한 상,중,하 계층 구분과는 매우 달랐다. 이 논문에서 제시한 바와 같이, 의복에 관한 사회적 인식이라는 매우 추상적인 기준으로 분류한 당시의 사회계층의 모습이 오늘날 우리가 흔히 알고 있는 사회학적 혹은 통계학적인 계층 분류보다 당시 사람들의 계층에 관한 감각에 더 접근해 있다고 판단된다.
Abstract
In the history of the Apparel Laws in England, the 1510s has unique importance; in the first five years of the 1510s four parliaments were summoned and every one of them tried to enact the Apparel Laws. Statistically, in this period, the laws were most frequently enacted in the parliamentary history of England. The main contents of the laws were to limit kinds, materials or costs of apparels by social hierarchy. The obsession of the MPs with this sort of law was supposedly “silly” enough to modern historians who did not pay any attention to the significance of the laws. To the Tudor people, however, the laws were really serious matters, as shown in the procedure of enactment of the laws. In the Apparel Laws, the MPs directly connected the social hierarchy and the recognition of the apparel which bore accustomed symbolism of apparel. Based on the 1510 apparel law, this study suggests two tables which show social hierarchy, apparels allowed to each class, and fines for the illegal wearing of the apparels. The tables indicate that the highest barrier was laid between the baron and the Knight of Garter in terms of social recognition of apparel, because any monetary value was not applicable to wear the apparel of the barons or above, no exceptional persons were allowed to wear the apparel, and fines were very large for the same case. The MPs classified social classes based on their customary understanding of social hierarchy and then limited apparels to each class. In this procedure, their recognition of classes led to set up the laws of apparel. Once the bill was enacted, however, the class was understood by apparel, not by their customary understanding of classes. In this stage, the social recognition of apparel became to be subordinated by the law. The social classes of the 1510s based on the recognition of apparel can show more realistic nature of classes than the social classes of modern sociology can.