달맞이꽃 추출물의 피부 진정에 관한 연구
Skin-soothing Effects of Oenothera biennis Flower Extract
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목적: 본 연구는 달맞이꽃 추출물(Oenothera biennis flower extract, OBFE)의 피부 진정 및 항염 효능을 가진 화장품 원료로서의 가능성을 확인하기 위해 수행되었다. 방법: 달맞이꽃의 꽃을 70% 에탄올로 추출하였다. 피부 진정에 영향을 줄 수 있는 항산화, 장벽강화, 보습, 피지분비 조절 및 항염 효능을 평가하였다. 항산화 효능을 보기 위하여 DPPH 활성 소거능을 측정하였다. 피부 장벽 관련 인자인 filaggrin (FLG)을 실시간중합효소 연쇄반응을 이용하여 mRNA의 발현량을 관찰하여 피부장벽 강화 효능을 확인하였다. 보습 효능은 hyaluronic acid (HA) 발현량을 ELISA로 확인하였다. 또한 염증성 매개인자인 nitric oxide (NO)와 prostaglandin E2 (PGE2)의 발현량을 확인하고, 피지 생성 억제능을 확인하여 항염 관련 효능을 확인하였다. 결과: 항산화 효능은 DPPH 활성 소거능으로 확인했으며 OBFE는 양성 대조군인 L-ascorbic acid 만큼 높은 효능을 보였다. 피부 장벽 관련 인자인 FLG 발현은 S. aureus에 의해 감소되었지만 OBFE가 회복시키는 결과를 보였다. 보습관련 인자인 HA의 생성량은 OBFE가 양성 대조군인 retinoic acid 보다 증가시켜 우수한 효능을 보였다. 염증 효능 관련하여 염증성 매개인자인 NO와 PGE2의 생성 억제 효능 실험에서 양성대조군과 비슷한 억제 효능을 나타내었고, 피지생성도 억제하는 것을 확인하였다. 결론: 이러한 결과는 OBFE가 항산화, 피부장벽 강화, 보습, 항염 및 피지조절 효과를 나타내어 민감한 피부를 진정시키는 화장품 소재로서 가능성을 가지고 있음을 시사한다.
Abstract
Purpose: The current study aimed to assess the use of Oenothera biennis flower extract (OBFE) as a cosmetic ingredient exhibiting potential skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory activities. Methods: O. biennis flowers were extracted with 70% ethanol and used in experiments to confirm skin-soothing efficacy. Several criteria related to skin soothing, such as antioxidant activity, barrier enhancement, moisturization, and sebum secretion control, and anti-inflammatory effects, were evaluated. Antioxidant activity was determined via the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging test. Skin barrier enhancement was assessed by studying the mRNA expression of filaggrin (FLG), a key skin barrier component, through quantitative real-time PCR. Moisturizing efficacy was evaluated by analyzing hyaluronic acid (HA) expression through ELISA. Furthermore, the expression levels of the inflammatory agents nitric oxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) were investigated in addition to checking the inhibitory effect on sebum production to confirm the anti-inflammatory effects. Results: Antioxidant activity was confirmed by DPPH radical scavenging ability, and OBFE demonstrated efficacy equivalent to that of L-ascorbic acid, positive control. Furthermore, OBFE recovered the Staphylococcus aureus-induced downregulation of FLG expression. Moreover, OBFE significantly improved the production of HA, surpassing the beneficial effect of the positive control, retinoic acid. OBFE also exhibited significant reduction in LPS-induced production of NO and PGE2 and effectively inhibited palmitic acid-induced sebum production in sebocytes. Conclusion: These findings imply that OBFE is a potential cosmetic ingredient that can be used to soothe sensitive skin as it exhibits antioxidant, skin barrier strengthening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-control effects.
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