시판 견사/셀룰로오스계 원사 교직물의 태 평가 및 홍화 염색물의 색상 분석에 대한 연구

Abstract

In Korean costumes, silk, ramie, and cotton fibers have long been used. Since the physical properties of the silk and cellulosic yarns are different, the resulting hand of the union fabric becomes unique in stiffness, springiness, smoothness, etc. These unique characteristics are mainly due to the anisotropic nature of the specimens. The hand properties of the union fabrics for the usage of summer clothing were evaluated using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). In this study, the dyeing properties of union fabrics of silk and cellulosic yarns were investigated. Even without mordants, dyeing of cellulosic fibers or silk fibers using safflower as a natural dyeing material is possible. Appropriate extraction conditions and dyeing conditions were investigated for the dyeing of the union fabric specimens, comprising silk and other fiber such as cotton, linen, ramie, and 'Hanji'. pH control for the extraction procedure is extremely important. In this study pH10.5 was maintained during the extraction procedure, in order to obtain red color, along with the dye bath pH control. Due to the different absorption characteristics of the silk and cellulosic yarns toward the safflower's dyestuff components, different color values were obtained under the observation direction of the union fabric specimens. Color characteristics of the dyed union fabric specimens were analyzed using colorimeters. Image analysis system/software under specific illumination condition was also adopted for the analysis. The union fabric specimens dyed using safflower exhibited compounded nature in terms of the hand of fabric and the color. Since the warp and filling yarns are of different fiber materials, when the observing directions are changed, the color of the dyed union fabric changed accordingly. This would add some unexpected beauty and sensibility - under wearing conditions - attributable to the directional color change, dependent on the observation position, of the dyed fabrics.