서양화가에 의해 표현된 한국의 근대 복식문화 -엘리자베스 키스(Elizabeth Keith)와 폴 자쿨레(Paul Jacoulet)의 작품을 중심으로-

Abstract

With the recent globalization and economic growth of Korea, the recognition of traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, has been increasing compared to the past. When the Korean costume culture faced the most remarkable change was the influx of Western culture, which corresponds to the Korean enlightenment period. During this period, the data recorded by Westerners are not very different from the results of current Westerners' perception of Korea and image formation. The data are significantly crucial in terms of being the prototype of Westerners' perception of Korea. The purpose of this study was to examine the perspectives of Westerners on Korean costume culture at that time through the Korean costumes in the works of Elizabeth Keith and Paul Jacoulet, who had a relationship with Korea in the 1920s and expressed Korean costume culture in painting. Thirteen works of Elizabeth Keith and twelve works of Paul Jacoulet were analyzed. As a result of this study, the beauty of traditional Korean costumes was defined in simplicity, line, abstract, and color. The simplicity refers to the fact that the clothes in the analyzed work do not change according to the aesthetic sense but are structurally expressed using only the essential functions of the clothes. The meaning of the line is to express the image of Korean clothes with soft curves and vertical lines. Elizabeth Keith expressed the Korean image by expressing the shape of the clothes using soft curves. On the other hand, Paul Jacoulet uses curves excessively to express the Korean costumes in his paintings with exotic images. Abstract refers to the fact that expressing the clothing in the analyzed work is expressed based on experience and memory rather than looking at the actual object. The color corresponds to the fact that Elizabeth Keith and Paul Jacoulet used colorful and lively colors based on white, which symbolized Koreans at the time, to express Korean costumes.