모 혼방 소재의 특성에 따른 세미 플레어 스커트 헴라인 형상 분석 -실제착의와 3D 가상착의 시스템을 중심으로-

Abstract

Appreciation of flare skirts is mainly based on its appearance when put on, in other words, its drape of which the selection of fabric is most decisive. There are a few other dynamic characteristics affecting the drape like bending stiffness(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis(2HG), weight(W) and so on. This study is aimed to investigate how the dynamic characteristics of fabric will affect the three dimensional quality of a semi flare skirt-a major item of 'feminine look' brought into fashion in S/S season of 2008. To see how exactly dynamic characteristics of fabric is simulated in the imaginary dressed condition by 3D Virtual Garment Simulation currently applied to various fields is another object of this study. This can help us find out how close we are now to the time of mass-customization. It is resulted that Plain weaved fabrics which has the lowest bending rigidity(B) and bending hysteresis(2HB) is pliable and soft and accordingly enables the silhouette which can emphasize the body shape, whereas the 5H Satin weaved fabrics which has the highest value is difficult to bend and tends to form the box type silhouette maintaining rooms from the body. 4H Twill weaved fabrics is evaluated to have more shear stiffness(G) and shear hysteresis(2HG) than 5H Satin weaved fabrics. 5H Satin weaved fabrics which has the lowest shear stiffness(G) and shear hysteresis is expected to have good drape with its excellent harmony with human body shape by providing the deflection and tactile sensation. When the thickness and weight of the blending rate is compared, Plain weaved fabrics is thinner and lighter than 5H Satin weaved fabrics, and the greater density of the fabric tends to have thicker and heavier characteristics. As the smaller the drape coefficient is in the range from 0 to 1, the better the drape becomes. It is determined that the 3H Twill weaved fabrics with the lowest value has good drape and Plain weaved fabrics has poor drape.