근대기(17C-19C) 남성복에 나타난 군복의 영향요인
Military Uniform’s Influential Factors on Man’s Wear in modern times(17C-19C)
2
조회
0
다운로드
1
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
Men's wear originated from expectation of the functionality as a means of expressing the status and power along with the attraction or the essence of dressing itself. Men's wear and the military uniform have been closely connected to each other regardless of an era, distinguishing class and regime and having a mutual effect on each other with dignified forms or decorations. The modern times allowed men's wear to be elaborated in various forms to be transformed into modern men's clothes. Traditionally, their men's wear used integrated elements including the authority, class and control along with the functionality and embellishment. Men's wear originated from the military uniform was developed to an external expressive medium for social exchange, having the socio-cultural significance, and may be assumed as the beginning of ready-to-wear for standardization and mass-production. Socio-cultural influences on the change of this period's men's wear include an ideological flow and zeitgeist, transportation and trade from economic and technological developments and the imperialism. However, there is no research on influencing factors of the miliary uniform on men's wear. Hence, this study aims to summarize transition of men's wear in modern times and influencing factors of the military uniform. It is expected to give data for understanding the military look and its design used in the contemporary fashion. This study intends to understand formation and the meaning of men's wear under mutual connection of changes of men's wear and the military uniform influencing it in the modern period. This study summarizes forms, use categories and episodes of men's top through analyzing men's wear details having connection with design elements according to changes of the military uniform related to weapon and tactics of the army in modern times. As for the research methodology, it examines changes of men's wear shown from social transition while identifying association of men's wear with the military uniform through surveying related data. it also analyzes historical materials on men's wear and the military uniform from related data including paintings, data held by a museum, documentaries and fashion photo images.
Abstract
Men's wear originated from expectation of the functionality as a means of expressing the status and power along with the attraction or the essence of dressing itself. Men's wear and the military uniform have been closely connected to each other regardless of an era, distinguishing class and regime and having a mutual effect on each other with dignified forms or decorations. The modern times allowed men's wear to be elaborated in various forms to be transformed into modern men's clothes. Traditionally, their men's wear used integrated elements including the authority, class and control along with the functionality and embellishment. Men's wear originated from the military uniform was developed to an external expressive medium for social exchange, having the socio-cultural significance, and may be assumed as the beginning of ready-to-wear for standardization and mass-production. Socio-cultural influences on the change of this period's men's wear include an ideological flow and zeitgeist, transportation and trade from economic and technological developments and the imperialism. However, there is no research on influencing factors of the miliary uniform on men's wear. Hence, this study aims to summarize transition of men's wear in modern times and influencing factors of the military uniform. It is expected to give data for understanding the military look and its design used in the contemporary fashion. This study intends to understand formation and the meaning of men's wear under mutual connection of changes of men's wear and the military uniform influencing it in the modern period. This study summarizes forms, use categories and episodes of men's top through analyzing men's wear details having connection with design elements according to changes of the military uniform related to weapon and tactics of the army in modern times. As for the research methodology, it examines changes of men's wear shown from social transition while identifying association of men's wear with the military uniform through surveying related data. it also analyzes historical materials on men's wear and the military uniform from related data including paintings, data held by a museum, documentaries and fashion photo images.
참고문헌 (24)
- John Hopkins, "BASICS FASHIN DESIGN:MENSWEAR", pp.24~ (2010), 맨즈웨어
- 신상옥, "서양복식사", pp.171~ (2016), 수학사
- 김양희, "17세기말-18세기말 프랑스 남자 쥐스또꼬르 유형변화와 패턴제작 연구", 복식, 59(8), pp.49~65 (2009), 한국복식학회
- 류경화, "19세기 초 서양 남성상의 고증제작 연구", 복식, 65(1), pp.136~149 (2015), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- 이경미, "대한제국기 문관 대례복 제작에 관한 연구 - 상의 패턴을 중심으로 -", 복식, 63(6), pp.56~68 (2013), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- Nomura Michiyo, "일본 명치(明治) 후기 경찰복제도 연구", 한복문화, 19(1), pp.5~24 (2016), 한복문화학회[DOI]
- 배수정, "화가 Jacques-Louis David의 초상화에 묘사된 18세기말 남·여 복식의 변화와 思想的潮流", 복식, 63(2), pp.82~97 (2013), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- 김명은, "17~18세기 동인도회사를 통한 네덜란드와 일본의 복식문화교류 연구", 복식, 65(4), pp.109~123 (2015), 한국복식학회
- 김윤희, "서양 기성복의 출현 배경과 그 유토피아적 성격", 복식, 64(3), pp.155~164 (2014), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- 한순자, "서양 군복의 변천과정에 관한 연구", 박사, 의류학, pp.2000
- Cally Blackman, "100 YEARS OF MENSWEAR", pp.50~62 (2014), SEEDPOST
- 정토웅, "전쟁사 101 장면", pp.168~174 (1998), 가람기획
- "유니폼 제복"[URL]
- Françoise Tétart-Vittu, "The complete costume history", pp.313~ (2006), TASCHEN
- EYEWITNESS VISUAL DICTIONARIES, "The visual dictionary of military uniforms, DK", pp.17~ (1992)
- Jack L. Summers, "Military Uniforms In Canada 1665-1970", pp.9~ (1981), NMC
- Blanche Payne, "복식의 역사", pp.405~ (1994), 도서출판 까치
- "18세기전쟁"[URL]
- 김민자, "서양패션 멀티 콘텐츠", pp.363~ (2010), 교문사
- 배수정, "현대패션과 서양복식 문화사", pp.179~ (2016), 수학사
- 고애란, "서양의 복식 문화와 역사", pp.202~ (2008), 교문사
- J. Anderson Black, "세계 패션사", pp.22~ (1997), 자작아카데미
- Josh Sims, "패션의 역사를 바꾼 스타일", pp.115~ (2014), 일구팔사
- 재인용, "패션의 역사", pp.95~96 (1998), 한길아트