17∼20세기 초 조선 왕실향낭의 특성을 응용한 참여형 복식문화상품 개발방안 연구

Abstract

Royal incense pouches from the 17th to early 20th centuries of the late Joseon dynasty are an important and rare design sources of Korean costume culture encompassing regularity, symbolism, and exquisite beauty. The aim of this study is to extract modern design elements from royal incense pouches of this period to develop participatory cultural costume products which consumers can easily make themselves to convey the meaning of royal incense pouches efficiently. This study puts emphasis on the possibility to mix-and-match these pouches with modern costume culture, the symbolism embedded in them, the ease of making them, and the characteristics and regularity represented in their patterns. Royal incense pouches were historically used as royal bounty, Uihyang(衣香) for repelling insects, decorations for sedan chairs, and in hope chests for royal weddings, all of which are difficult to be applied to modern costume culture. But the repeated colors of scarlet(多紅), green(草綠), western green(洋草綠), willow-blue(柳靑), pink(粉紅), white(白), jade color(玉), navy(藍) in the records of Balgi, and the symbolic patterns of pomegranate, rhinoceros horns, and lotus flowers are components which are relatively easy to apply to cultural products. Design elements were extracted from Balgi records, existing embroidered royal incense Norigae, and the incense pouch of King Youngchin. Four kinds of participatory cultural costume products were developed in the style of semi-finished goods: a DIY traditional pouch kit including color motifs and basic materials, pattern-printed fabrics for experiential education, embroidery motifs, and embroidery parts for making Hanbok goods. The DIY traditional pouch kit consists of Korean style satin stitch, outline stitch, and long and shot stitch, with a focus on ease. Pattern-printed fabrics are a product customers can easily decorate based on their personal taste, and embroidery motifs utilize traditional patterns for personal designs. The embroidery parts were made by machine to reduce prices. In the case of the participatory cultural costume products for non-professionals, a basic educational course can be offered as part of a package.