「喪服商」에 나타난 髽의 형태에 대한 고찰

Abstract

This paper aims to consider Dasan’s interpretation of Gwa (髽), hair accessory [首飾] that a women wears in funeral rites and express it in pictures. Dasan regards Gwa as element corresponding to men’s Sanggwan (喪冠). Like the man cannot help but use Sanggwan (喪冠), Women can not help but wear Gwa. So this paper considered ‘Yili’ (儀禮) and Family rituals (家禮) in detail for historical investigation and restoration of Gwa. Dasan clarified that the principle of deciding women’s mourning dress is following lightness compared to man. This is why compared to the men who does Gwalbal (括髮) only with the hair strap made with hemp, women wears Gwa (髽) with the hair strap made with hemp cloth and Binyeo (笄). Wife uses hemp cloth that is less rough than hemp and Binyeo that is not for men, in order to follow more rhetorical embellishment and lightness. Dasan respected and worshipped the rules of Family rituals and presented the type of Gwa through critical research on Yili and comment. The Chinese character jwa (髽) consisted of hair (髟) and sitting (坐), it meant small topknot (小髻), dwarf topknot (矬髻), or sitting topknot (坐髻). She made Gwa with hair strap made with hemp cloth [布總] and to fix it firmly, sticked a Binyeo in her hair. The historical vidence proved that in case of Jechoi (齊衰), the circumference of Gwa is 8 chon and the height of it 6 chon or so and in case of Chamchoi (斬衰), it should be made lower and smaller than Jechoi (齊衰). Dasan was the only person who revealed the system including the specific dimensions through strict historical investigation on Gwa, women’s hair accessory in funeral rites. This study is significant in that it presented hair accessory that the women wore in funeral rites according to the customs. It also implies that the women came to have status as principal agent in funeral rites.