Taste of Korea:Governmental Discourse on National Cuisine and Its Articulation of Nation-ness
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In 2008, the Korean government announced the globalization of hansik (Korean cuisine) as a national project and declared 2008 the ‘Year of Korean Food Globalization.’ Since then, the government and its associated organizations have fostered a large number of discussions on Korean food, using public announcements, festivals, exhibitions, forums, and media outlets. The purpose of this article is to understand this growth of governmental discourse on national cuisine as a struggle for nation-ness. Due to its incomplete nature, a nation requires a constant symbolic process of the naturalization of arbitrariness, which imbues it with an aura of factuality. In this article, I argue that the Korean government utilizes national cuisine to narrate ‘Korea’ and sustain the binding force of the nation-state in the face of open-market structures. This study examines both the social contexts and concrete examples of the Korean government’s discursive practices with regard to Korean cuisine. Based on an analysis of news articles about Korean food globalization published before and during the early Lee MyungBak administration, I argue that the Korean government’s growing interest in Korean cuisine was initiated not only by its awareness of the increasing size of the global food industry, but also by its efforts to maintain the national unity of Korean society, which would be weakened by the KORUS FTA. In order to offer detailed properties of the governmental discourse on Korean cuisine, I examined The Taste of Korea, an online newsletter of the Korean Food Foundation, which had played a crucial role as the only official organization in promoting Korean food, both domestically and globally. My semiotic analysis of the newsletter shows that the Korean government emphasizes the homogeneity, uniqueness, and tradition- embeddedness of Korean cuisine. These patterned themes demonstrate that the Korean government, through the discourse of national cuisine, seeks to stress intra-national sameness and unity of Korean society, as well as the ethnic and racial purity of Korean people and culture. While situated in a Korean context, this article broadly contributes to current studies on gastronationalism by unveiling the reflective and formative roles of food discourse with regard to a discourse of the nation.
Abstract
In 2008, the Korean government announced the globalization of hansik (Korean cuisine) as a national project and declared 2008 the ‘Year of Korean Food Globalization.’ Since then, the government and its associated organizations have fostered a large number of discussions on Korean food, using public announcements, festivals, exhibitions, forums, and media outlets. The purpose of this article is to understand this growth of governmental discourse on national cuisine as a struggle for nation-ness. Due to its incomplete nature, a nation requires a constant symbolic process of the naturalization of arbitrariness, which imbues it with an aura of factuality. In this article, I argue that the Korean government utilizes national cuisine to narrate ‘Korea’ and sustain the binding force of the nation-state in the face of open-market structures. This study examines both the social contexts and concrete examples of the Korean government’s discursive practices with regard to Korean cuisine. Based on an analysis of news articles about Korean food globalization published before and during the early Lee MyungBak administration, I argue that the Korean government’s growing interest in Korean cuisine was initiated not only by its awareness of the increasing size of the global food industry, but also by its efforts to maintain the national unity of Korean society, which would be weakened by the KORUS FTA. In order to offer detailed properties of the governmental discourse on Korean cuisine, I examined The Taste of Korea, an online newsletter of the Korean Food Foundation, which had played a crucial role as the only official organization in promoting Korean food, both domestically and globally. My semiotic analysis of the newsletter shows that the Korean government emphasizes the homogeneity, uniqueness, and tradition- embeddedness of Korean cuisine. These patterned themes demonstrate that the Korean government, through the discourse of national cuisine, seeks to stress intra-national sameness and unity of Korean society, as well as the ethnic and racial purity of Korean people and culture. While situated in a Korean context, this article broadly contributes to current studies on gastronationalism by unveiling the reflective and formative roles of food discourse with regard to a discourse of the nation.
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