본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

현대 여성복 컬렉션에 나타난 테일러드 재킷의 디자인 경향에 관한 연구-재킷의 구성 요소를 중심으로-

A Study on Design Trends of Tailored Jacket in Contemporary Women’s Collection -Focused on Constructive Elements of Jacket-

김경아
한국의류산업학회 (The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry)|2019.10|한국의류산업학회지 (The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal)|제21권 제5호|pp. 552-563|DOI 10.5805/SFTI.2019.21.5.552

1

조회

0

다운로드

4

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

women’ wear (여성복)tailored jacket (테일러드 재킷)design elements of jacket (재킷의 디자인 요소)
주제분류생활과학

초록

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

Abstract

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

참고문헌 (75)

  1. "Acne Studios 2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  2. "A. F. Vandevorst 2015 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  3. "A. F. Vandevorst 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  4. Ahn, H. N., "A study on tailored collar pattern for jacket", master’s, pp.2008
  5. Ahn, H. S., "Jacket pattern & sewing practice" (2001), Iljinsa
  6. "Alexander McQueen"[URL]
  7. "Alexander McQueen 2016 F/W REDY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  8. "Alexander McQueen 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  9. "Alexander McQueen 2018 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  10. "Alexander Wang 2015 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  11. "Alexander Wang 2018 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  12. "Alexis Mabille 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  13. "Altuzarra 2019 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  14. "Anrealage 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  15. Armstrong, H. J., "Patternmaking for fashion design" (2011), Yehaksa
  16. "Balmain 2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  17. "Balmain 2018 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  18. Calasibetta, C., "Dictionary of Fashion" (2006), Fairchild
  19. Callan, G., "Fashion and Fashion Designers" (2008), The Thames & Hudson world of art
  20. "Calvin Klein Collection 2016 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  21. Cheon, M. J., "A study on fashion design by pattern deconstruction of tailored jacket", master’s, pp.2018
  22. Cho, K. H., "Costume dictionary" (1995), Kyungchoonsa
  23. Choi, C. S., "A study on jacket making according to design preference analysis for Korean baby-boom generation women", doctoral, pp.2012
  24. Choi, I. Y., "A study on the different shapes and contours of tailored collars-focusing on collar laying amount and collar stand of tailored jackets", master’s, pp.2017
  25. Choi, K. M., "Apparel making women’s jacket" (2009), Kyohakyeongoosa
  26. "Dolce & Gabbana 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  27. "DKNY 2016 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  28. "DKNY 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  29. "Frock coat"[URL]
  30. "Gucci 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  31. "Gucci 2017 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  32. "Haider Ackermann 2018 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  33. 황선하, "테일러드 재킷의 소매산 높이와 진동깊이에 관한 연구", 석사, 의류학과, pp.2013
  34. "Isabel Marant 2015 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  35. Jang, S. E., "A study on the pattern by the traits of fabrics of women tailored jacket", master’s, pp.2006
  36. Jeong, J. C., "A study on the slim fit tailored jacket patterns for each body type of women in their 30s", doctoral, pp.2015
  37. 정두이, "테일러드 재킷 꺽임선에 따른 라펠과 윗칼라의 조화에 관한 패턴 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 14(6), pp.952~959 (2012), 한국의류산업학회
  38. 강여선, "남성복 재킷의 선호 여유량과 맞음새에 관한 연구", 한국의류학회지, 29(1), pp.91~102 (2005), 한국의류학회
  39. 김구영, "여성복 테일러드 재킷의 칼라제작요인에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 10(6), pp.947~954 (2008), 한국의류산업학회
  40. Kim, H. R., "Aesthetic characteristics of women’s suits in modern fashion", master’s, pp.2010
  41. 김영란, "파워 숄더 룩의 패턴구조 분석", 디자인학연구, 23(4), pp.265~274 (2010), 한국디자인학회
  42. Kim, M. J., "Western costume multicontents" (2010), Kyomoonsa
  43. 김선영, "현대 여성패션에 나타난 보머 재킷의 조형성과 연출 특성 - 2013S", S～2016S, 한국디자인문화학회지, pp.2016, 22(2)[DOI]
  44. Koo, M. R., "A study on the visual effect by pattern of two piece sleeve", The Journal of Korean Living Science Research, 26(2), pp.3~8 (2006)
  45. Kwak, Y. S., "The process of making custom suitsmen’s tailoring" (2010), Kyungchoonsa
  46. "Lanvin 2016 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  47. "Lanvin 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  48. 이보나, "Tailored Collar 패턴 제도법에 따른 시각적 이미지 연구", 복식문화연구, 14(4), pp.609~624 (2006), 복식문화학회
  49. 이은혜, "어깨각도에 따른 파워숄더 패턴전개방법 연구", 기초조형학연구, 12(3), pp.397~406 (2011), 한국기초조형학회
  50. Lee, J. J., "Fashion, say about culture" (2011), Yekyung
  51. 이세종, "2011년 F", W 여성복컬렉션에서 나타난 과장형 재킷의 디테일별 분석, 2011, pp.11(3), 61~77[DOI]
  52. Lee, S. R., "Pattern story of Lee 3" (2009), Kisoolgwagamseong
  53. 이소영, "칼라눕힘분에 따른 칼라 및 라펠의 특성 연구-테일러드 칼라 재킷을 중심으로-", 한국의류학회지, 35(4), pp.421~430 (2011), 한국의류학회
  54. Lim, S. Y., "Divided pattern of Leonardo Davinchi’s style" (2012), Hana
  55. "Louis Vuitton 2016 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  56. "Louis Vuitton 2017 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  57. "Marlene Dietrich"[URL]
  58. "Marni 2017 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  59. "MM6 Maison Martin Margiela 2015 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  60. "Mugler 2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  61. "New Look by Christian Dior"[URL]
  62. 박주희, "어깨 확장 디자인의 유형별 의복구성 분석", 한국디자인포럼, (36), pp.409~420 (2012), 한국디자인트렌드학회[DOI]
  63. "Power suit by Giorgio Armani"[URL]
  64. "Redingote gown"[URL]
  65. "Saint Laurent 2018 S/S READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  66. "Sait Larent 2018 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  67. "The picture of princess Alexandra"[URL]
  68. "The portrait of Robert Dudley"[URL]
  69. "Veronique Branquinho 2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  70. "Versace 2017 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  71. "Vetement 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  72. "Vivienne Westwood 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  73. "Vivienne Westwood Red Label 2015 F/W READY-TO-WEAR"[URL]
  74. Wee, E. H., "The visual effect in combination of suit details on classic style suits-middle aged women’s body construct", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(3), pp.525~536 (2001)
  75. Worsley, H., "100 Ideas that changed fashion" (2012), Seedpost

관련 논문AI추천

2000년대 여성패션에 나타난 재킷유형분석박미경, 송정아한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2017 · 제19권 제5호20세기 여성복 테일러드 재킷의 의복구성 변천 연구김경아한국기초조형학회 · 기초조형학연구2022 · 제23권 제1호여성 재킷의 형태적 변화에 관한 분석 -2013년 S/S~2017년 F/W 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로-김지민, 김효숙한국패션비즈니스학회 · 패션 비즈니스2019 · 제23권 제1호파워숄더 재킷의 어깨 구성 방법과 디테일 대응 분석박정아, 이정란복식문화학회 · 복식문화연구2021 · 제29권 제3호2015년도 이후 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 오버사이즈 룩의 의복구성 특성 분석김경아복식문화학회 · 복식문화연구2019 · 제27권 제5호샤넬 재킷 디자인의 구성학적 요소 분석도월희, 이미숙, 최세린한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2018 · 제20권 제3호

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (13건)

비비안 탐 컬렉션에 나타난 중국풍 디자인 특성 연구박주희, 강란영pp. 527-539크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰임은혁, 정정희pp. 540-551청소년의 또래관계에서 오는 부정적 감정이 의복과시소비 행동에 미치는 영향김상진, 이진화, 김서영pp. 564-573K-beauty SNS 인플루언서가 중국 소비자의 신제품 수용의도에 미치는 영향-정교화 가능성 모델(ELM)을 중심으로-왕뢰, 이진화pp. 574-585주관적 사회경제적 지위와 건강 인식 수준에 따른 노년 여성의 연령주의,노화에 대한 태도, 신체만족도 비교 연구이민선, 유혜경pp. 586-596
원문 보기