본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

여성 재킷의 형태적 변화에 관한 분석 -2013년 S/S~2017년 F/W 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로-

Analysis of Variations in Structural Components and Design Elements of Women’s Jackets -A Focus on 2013 S/S~2017 F/W Milan Collections-

김지민|김효숙
한국패션비즈니스학회|2019.02|패션 비즈니스 (Journal of Fashion Business)|제23권 제1호|pp. 145-162|DOI https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2019.23.1.145

2

조회

0

다운로드

0

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

collection변화variation컬렉션women’s jacket여성 재킷밀라노Milan
주제분류생활과학

초록

This study reviewed photos of women’s jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women’s jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women’s jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

Abstract

This study reviewed photos of women’s jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women’s jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women’s jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

참고문헌 (56)

  1. "10 Top fashion trends from 2017 that are here to stay"[URL]
  2. 최세린, "샤넬 재킷 디자인의 구성학적 요소 분석", 한국의류산업학회지, 20(3), pp.266~278 (2018), 한국의류산업학회[DOI]
  3. "The Power of Italy: A Preview by Claudia Croft" (2018)[URL]
  4. "Doopedia"[URL]
  5. "Fashion dictionary" (2006), Bunka Publishing Bureau
  6. "Figure 15, 38" (2013)[URL]
  7. "Figure 4" (2015)[URL]
  8. "Figure 1" (2017)[URL]
  9. "Figure 5, 24" (2017)[URL]
  10. "Figure 6, 32" (2013)[URL]
  11. "Figure 21" (2014)[URL]
  12. "Figure 3, 27" (2015)[URL]
  13. "Figure 16" (2015)[URL]
  14. "Figure 12, 18, 34, 37" (2016)[URL]
  15. "Figure 20" (2016)[URL]
  16. "Figure 2, 7, 29" (2017)[URL]
  17. "Figure 36" (2013)[URL]
  18. "Figure 14" (2013)[URL]
  19. "Figure 17, 23, 39" (2017)[URL]
  20. "Figure 40" (2017)[URL]
  21. Han, S., "Fashion design" (2014), Kyohaksa
  22. "Figure 25, 28" (2013)[URL]
  23. "Figure 9" (2013)[URL]
  24. "Figure 19" (2014)[URL]
  25. "Figure 10" (2015)[URL]
  26. "Figure 33" (2016)[URL]
  27. "Figure 22" (2017)[URL]
  28. "Figure 30" (2017)[URL]
  29. 정유경, "20세기 프랑스 패션과 이탈리아 패션의 비교 연구", 복식, 56(9), pp.112~126 (2006), 한국복식학회
  30. Kim, E., "A study on the Italian fashion design in the latter half of the 20th century-focused on womenswear-", master, pp.2005
  31. 김언정, "고부가가치 패션제품개발을 위한 오뜨꾸뛰르 디자이너 복고적 재킷디자인 분석", 복식, 64(3), pp.77~92 (2014), 한국복식학회[DOI]
  32. 김구영, "여성복 테일러드 재킷의 칼라제작요인에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 10(6), pp.947~954 (2008), 한국의류산업학회
  33. Kim, H., "Women’s tailoring" (2015), Kyungchun-sa
  34. "2017 S/S Trends 11" (2017)[URL]
  35. 김유경, "조르지오 아르마니(Giorgio Armani)의 디자인 요소와 원리 연구-뉴욕 구겐하임 미술관 전시 여성복을 중심으로-", 한국디자인문화학회지, 12(2), pp.178~187 (2006), 한국디자인문화학회
  36. 공미란, "조르지오 아르마니의 디자인 특성에 관한 연구 -2001~2006년 S", S를 중심으로-, 2006, pp.8(1), 7~16[DOI]
  37. Lee, G., "Characteristics of the Italian ethical fashion and design", master, pp.2016
  38. Lee, H., "A study on the fashion industry of France and Italy", master, pp.2006
  39. Lee, H., "복식디자인: 기성복디자인에의어프로치" (1987), Kyohaksa
  40. 이해연, "패션브랜드의 마케팅 전략에 관한 연구 -영국, 프랑스, 이탈리아 럭셔리 패션브랜드를 중심으로-", 한국의류산업학회지, 9(2), pp.211~220 (2007), 한국의류산업학회
  41. 이정은, "알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen)의 재킷에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 18(2), pp.194~206 (2016), 한국의류산업학회
  42. 이세종, "2011년 F", W 여성복컬렉션에서 나타난 과장형 재킷의 디테일별 분석, 2011, pp.11(3), 61~77[DOI]
  43. 이신영, "2013", 14, 2014, W 컬렉션에 나타난 벌키 실루엣 코트 경향 분석, pp.한국의류산업학회지, 2017[DOI]
  44. "Figure 26" (2014)[URL]
  45. "Figure 13" (2014)[URL]
  46. "Figure 8, 11" (2015)[URL]
  47. "Figure 35" (2016)[URL]
  48. "The big four fashion weeks & seoul fashion week"[URL]
  49. 노미경, "서울과 밀라노의 스트리트 패션 비교 연구", 복식, 53(5), pp.49~63 (2003), 한국복식학회
  50. Paik, G., "A study on factors for competitiveness of Italian textile & fashion apparel industry", The Journal of Contemporary European Studies, 11, pp.175~213 (2000)
  51. Park, H., "Contemporary fashion design" (2006), Kyomunsa
  52. 박영희, "현대 남성 수트의 디자인 요소에 나타난 트렌드 변화 - 2011년 S", S ～ 2013년 F, 한국디자인포럼, pp.2015, (46)[DOI]
  53. "Women’s pockets are officially smaller than men’s study reveals" (2018)[URL]
  54. "Denim jackets: Data behind the SS15 runway trend" (2014)[URL]
  55. 송정아, "2000년대 여성패션에 나타난 재킷유형분석", 한국의류산업학회지, 19(5), pp.608~619 (2017), 한국의류산업학회[DOI]
  56. "The top fashion trends of 2013" (2013)[URL]

관련 논문AI추천

현대 여성복 컬렉션에 나타난 테일러드 재킷의 디자인 경향에 관한 연구-재킷의 구성 요소를 중심으로-김경아한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2019 · 제21권 제5호2000년대 여성패션에 나타난 재킷유형분석박미경, 송정아한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2017 · 제19권 제5호2000년대 디자이너별 재킷 형태분석박미경, 송정아한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2022 · 제24권 제2호샤넬 재킷 디자인의 구성학적 요소 분석도월희, 이미숙, 최세린한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2018 · 제20권 제3호2013/14, 2014/15 F/W 컬렉션에 나타난 벌키 실루엣 코트 경향 분석신경희, 이신영한국의류산업학회 · 한국의류산업학회지2017 · 제19권 제2호파워숄더 재킷의 어깨 구성 방법과 디테일 대응 분석박정아, 이정란복식문화학회 · 복식문화연구2021 · 제29권 제3호

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (11건)

인구통계학적 특성에 따른 스마트 의류에 대한 선호도 및 추구혜택 차이 분석박영희pp. 1-13국내외 기능성 침구 개발 현황에 관한 연구 -IoT(Internet of Things) 기술기반 스마트 침구를 중심으로-김성달, 윤수빈pp. 14-24우즈베키스탄 유학생들의 의복 구매행동에 관한 연구(1) -의복 착용실태와 한국 패션제품 구매의도에 미치는 영향요인 분석-이옥희pp. 25-36더블라셀 소재의 CAD에 의한 표현과 물성연구최경미, 김종준pp. 37-48한국 전통 의복에 나타난 모듈러 디자인 특성 연구나유신pp. 49-63
원문 보기