마들렌 비오네의 디자인 연구
A Study on the Design of Madeleine Vionnet
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초록
Madeleine Vionnet(1876∼1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time.The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.
Abstract
Madeleine Vionnet(1876∼1975, France),the most prominent figure of the 20th century draping, started her apprentice in France in 1888 and expressed feminity of adult products through her various works until she closed the house in 1940. The feminine designs of the adult style appeared in 1930s, whose characteristics were silhouette and details that emphasize the body, and bias designs. Not only Vionnet, but also Chanel and Schiaparelli were the representative female designers at that time.The preliminary researches of Vionnet designs were mostly focused on her cutting methods. This paper purports to examine Vionnet's bias cutting method, to compare Vionnet with female designers of Chanel and Schiaparelli who led the mode of 1930s with feminine designs for the adult products in that period, and then to attempt creative designs by use of bias cutting.
참고문헌 (8)
- "Vionnet작품의 구성원리와 기법에 대한 연구", 17 (1991)
- "비오네의 재단방법은 Betty Kirke 의 “Madeleine Vionnet”라는 문헌에 자세히 소개되고 있어 이를 참고하였다" (1991)
- "본 연구자가 특히 비오네의 디자인을 1930년대 중심으로 연구하는 것은 1929년부터 바이어스 재단을 시작하여 1930년대 가장 많은 작품을 제작하였기 때문이다"
- "Glamour in Fashion", pp.20~ (1992), London : Guinness Publishing
- "스커트나 인버티드의 스커트 등의 플리츠나 플레어를 넣어 동작을 편하게 하거나 유동적인 드레이프가 지도록 잇거나 끼워 넣는 삼각형이나 사다리형의 천 조각을 말한다" (2004)
- "샤넬 스타일 디자인 연구", pp.74~ (1998)
- "는 불어로 속임수 실물 같은 착각을 일으키는 그림이라는 뜻이다" (1995)
- "바이어스 드레이핑 디자인 연구" (2000)