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미하일 바흐친(Mikhail Bakhtin) 카니발이론의 유희성을 중심으로 본 베트멍(Vetements)의 패션 밈 특성

Characteristics of Fashion Memes in Vetements based on the Playfulness of Mikhail Bakhtin’s Carnival Theory

박혜원|윤지애
한국패션비즈니스학회|2021.05|패션 비즈니스 (Journal of Fashion Business)|제25권 제2호|pp. 1-17

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참고문헌

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카니발Playfulness유희성미하일 바흐친Mikhail BakhtinCarnival패션 밈베트멍Fashion MemeVetements
주제분류생활과학

초록

The development of the Internet has led to the emergence of an internet meme culture using duplication. This phenomenon has appeared in the fashion field as ‘fashion memes’ and its playful expression has helped it to spread. Vetements is one of the well-known brands that actively incorporates fashion memes into their fashion. The purpose of this study was to examine the playfulness of Mikhail Bakhtin’s Carnival Theory and identify the playful identity, design characteristics, and implications of Vetements’ fashion memes in light of Bakhtin’s playfulness. The research methods were literature research and collection case analysis, and empirical content research was conducted in parallel. The scope of this study was fashion memes shown in the products from 2017 S/S to 2019 F/W. The study results showed that Bakhtin's playfulness could be divided into “playfulness in the destruction of hierarchy”, “playfulness in grotesque imagery” and “playfulness in the emphasis on the lower bodily stratum”. Based on these findings, the playful identity of Vetements’ fashion meme images can be described as follows. First, it breaks down the existing order of fashion brands like the destruction of hierarchy in Bakhtin’s theory. Second, it is grotesque; it is strange, eerie, yet ridiculous at the same time. Third, it is a playful metaphor of contamination, filth, and lower stratum. The modes of embodiment of such identity include Vetements’ collaboration with famous brands, the use of cheap items, and the expression of genderless ideas.

Abstract

The development of the Internet has led to the emergence of an internet meme culture using duplication. This phenomenon has appeared in the fashion field as ‘fashion memes’ and its playful expression has helped it to spread. Vetements is one of the well-known brands that actively incorporates fashion memes into their fashion. The purpose of this study was to examine the playfulness of Mikhail Bakhtin’s Carnival Theory and identify the playful identity, design characteristics, and implications of Vetements’ fashion memes in light of Bakhtin’s playfulness. The research methods were literature research and collection case analysis, and empirical content research was conducted in parallel. The scope of this study was fashion memes shown in the products from 2017 S/S to 2019 F/W. The study results showed that Bakhtin's playfulness could be divided into “playfulness in the destruction of hierarchy”, “playfulness in grotesque imagery” and “playfulness in the emphasis on the lower bodily stratum”. Based on these findings, the playful identity of Vetements’ fashion meme images can be described as follows. First, it breaks down the existing order of fashion brands like the destruction of hierarchy in Bakhtin’s theory. Second, it is grotesque; it is strange, eerie, yet ridiculous at the same time. Third, it is a playful metaphor of contamination, filth, and lower stratum. The modes of embodiment of such identity include Vetements’ collaboration with famous brands, the use of cheap items, and the expression of genderless ideas.

참고문헌 (61)

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