본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

Pre-Orientalism in Costume and Textiles

0

조회

0

다운로드

1

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

주제분류생활과학

초록

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

Abstract

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

참고문헌 (62)

  1. "A woman in a dress made of Siamoise"[URL]
  2. "Ambassador of Siam"[URL]
  3. "Anatolian rug"[URL]
  4. Ashelford, J., "The art of dress: clothes and society 1500-1914" (1996), The National Trust
  5. Barbour, R., "Before Orientalism: London's theatre of the East 1576-1626" (2009), Cambridge University Press
  6. "Madonna and child enthroned"[URL]
  7. Boucher, F, "20,000 years of fashion" (1965), Henry N. Abrams
  8. "La p che chinoise ê"[URL]
  9. Brotton, J., "This Orient Isle: Elizabethan England and the islamic world" (2016), Allen Lane
  10. "A Venetian Lady in Masquerade"[URL]
  11. "Coffee Server"[URL]
  12. Dabashi, H., "Post-Orientalism: knowledge and power in time of terror" (2017), Routledg
  13. Davison, M., "Printed cotton textiles", The Art Institute of Chicago Quarterly, 52(4), pp.82~89 (1958)
  14. DeJean, J., "The essence of style: How the french invented fashion, fine food, chic cafés, style, sophistication, and glamour" (2005), Free Press
  15. "Dervish"[URL]
  16. "Dutch East India Company"[URL]
  17. "East India Company"[URL]
  18. "Europe"[URL]
  19. "European tapestry production and patronage, 1600– 1800"[URL]
  20. Faroqhi, S., "The cambridge history of Turkey: The later Ottoman Empire, 1603-1839" (2006), Cambridge University Press
  21. Geczy, A., "Fashion and Orientalism: dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century" (2013), Bloomsbury Academic
  22. "Samuel Pepys"[URL]
  23. Kalmar, I., "Early Orientalism" (2014), Routledg
  24. 김은실, "현대패션에 응용된 근세(16C~18C)의복장식에 관한 연구", 패션 비즈니스, 13(1), pp.125~140 (2009), 한국패션비즈니스학회
  25. 김성희, "비자실크(Bizarre silk) 디자인에 관한 연구", 패션 비즈니스, 22(1), pp.100~113 (2018), 한국패션비즈니스학회[DOI]
  26. King, D., "The eastern carpet in the western world, from the 15th to the 17th century" (1983), Arts Council of Great Britain
  27. "lady Mary Montagu"[URL]
  28. 고영숙, "자포니슴(Japonisme)에 나타난 복식미 연구", 패션 비즈니스, 13(2), pp.30~49 (2009), 한국패션비즈니스학회
  29. Lau, L., "Re-Orientalism and south asian identity politics" (2011), Routledg
  30. Laver, J., "Costume & fashion" (1969), Thames and Hudson
  31. Lee, "Exchange of intelligence and mutual recognition of East and West in the transition period" (2013), Sunin
  32. Lehnert, G., "Fusion fashion: culture beyond Orientalism and Occidentalism" (2013), Peter LangGmbH
  33. "Husband and wife"[URL]
  34. "Three figures dressed for a masqueradec"[URL]
  35. "Male fashion illustration"[URL]
  36. Mamdani, M., "Good Muslim, bad Muslim:America, The Cold War, and the roots of terroris" (2004), Pantheon
  37. "Man from India"[URL]
  38. Martin, R., "Orientalism: vision of the east in western dress" (1994), The Metropolitan Museum
  39. McCabe, B., "Orientalism in early modern France" (2008), Berg Publishing
  40. "Definition of Orientalism"[URL]
  41. Mus e de la mode et é du textile, "Touches d'exotisme, XIVe-XXe siècles" (1998), Union centrale des arts décoratifs
  42. "Orient"[URL]
  43. "Furnishing fabric"[URL]
  44. Pullan, B, "Crisis and change in the Venetian economy in the sixteenth and seventeenth" (1968), Methuen & Co Ltd
  45. "Rainbow portrait of Elizabeth Ⅰ"[URL]
  46. "Re-entrant prayer rug"[URL]
  47. "Savonnerie carpet"[URL]
  48. "Savonnerie manufactory"[URL]
  49. Scott, K., "Playing garment with otherness:Watteau’s Chinese cabinet at the Château de la Muette", Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes, 66, pp.189~248 (2003)
  50. "Siamoise Flammée textile"[URL]
  51. "Sir Robert Shirley"[URL]
  52. "Solomon and the Queen of Sheba"[URL]
  53. "The concert from a set of Indo-Chinese scenes"[URL]
  54. "The Emperor on a journey"[URL]
  55. "The entry of the Moroccan envoy"[URL]
  56. "Turquerie"[URL]
  57. "Sultan's wife drinking coffee"[URL]
  58. "the Triumphal Procession"[URL]
  59. "Maria Theresa in the costume of a Turkish lady of the harem"[URL]
  60. "Man in oriental costume"[URL]
  61. "The Grand Vizier"[URL]
  62. "With Mask"[URL]

관련 논문AI추천

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (9건)