모시 소재에 적합한 한국적 이미지의 의상디자인 개발에 대한 연구(제1보) - 고구려 시대 복식의 미적 특징을 적용하여 -

Abstract

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times ; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows :First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively ; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people ; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress.Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation ; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions ; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive ; as Goguryeo was a prosperouscountry established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely ; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style.Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and