현대패션에 나타난 재패니즘(Japanism)에 관한 연구 - 2001S/S에서 2011S/S를 중심으로 -
Japanism in modern fashion - From 2001 S/S to 2011 S/S -
2
조회
0
다운로드
1
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of 21st century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan’s traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.
Abstract
This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of 21st century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan’s traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.
참고문헌 (64)
- Alastair, D., "Art nouveau" (1994), Sigongsa
- "Alessandro, D." (2012)[URL]
- "Alexander, M." (2012)[URL]
- "Alexander, M." (2012)[URL]
- "Alexander, M." (2012)[URL]
- "Armani, P." (2012)[URL]
- "Balenciaga" (2012)[URL]
- "Basso&Brooke" (2012)[URL]
- "Bottega, V." (2012)[URL]
- "Bruno, P." (2012)[URL]
- "Chanel" (2012)[URL]
- Cho, K. H., "Aesthetics of costume" (1987), Soohaksa
- 조규화, "일본 패션의 미적 특성에 관한 연구- <모드 자포니슴>을 중심으로 -", 패션 비즈니스, 11(4), pp.232~246 (2007), 한국패션비즈니스학회
- Cho, K. H., "Aesthetics of fashion" (2004), Soohaksa
- 최인려, "현대패션에 표현된 일본 복식디자인의 조형적 특성에 관한 연구", 한복문화, 10(2), pp.141~151 (2007), 한복문화학회
- 최인려, "현대 패션에 표현된 한국과 일본 전통 복식 디자인의 조형적 특성에 관한 연구", 복식문화연구, 15(5), pp.749~759 (2007), 복식문화학회
- Choi, M. S., "A study on Japonism appeared in contemporary fashion design", 석사, pp.2009
- 최유진, "오리가미의 표현 기법이 나타난 현대 패션 디자인의 표현 분석", Family and Environment Research, 47(4), pp.1~10 (2009), 대한가정학회
- "Christian, D." (2012)[URL]
- "Christian, D." (2012)[URL]
- "Christian, D." (2012)[URL]
- "Christian, D." (2012)[URL]
- Chung, H. S., "A history of fashion" (1981), Gyomunsa
- 정현숙, "현대 패션에 나타난 에스닉 스타일 분석- 재패니즘을 중심으로 -", 복식문화연구, 17(6), pp.1047~1058 (2009), 복식문화학회
- Delay, N., "Eternal Japan" (2002), Sigongsa
- "Dries, V. N." (2012)[URL]
- Engel, P., "Origami from angelfish to zen" (1994), Dover pub
- Eymeric, F., "Gap", 103~ (2006)
- 강정현, "21세기패션에 나타난 에스닉 이미지", 복식, 60(7), pp.131~142 (2010), 한국복식학회
- "GianFranco, F." (2012)[URL]
- "Givenchy" (2012)[URL]
- Gluckman, D. C., "When art became fashion : Kosode in Edo period" (1992), Weatherhill
- "Gucci" (2012)[URL]
- Han, K. M., "A study on zenstyle showed on the clothing in the fashion designers in Japan : Focused on Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto", Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 4(1), pp.1~21 (2004)
- Kennedy, A., "Japanese costume history and tradition" (1990), Adame Biro
- 김혜정, "19세기 인상주의 회화 작품 속에 표현된 쟈포니즘으로서의 일본 복식에 관한 연구", 복식, 53(6), pp.11~23 (2003), 한국복식학회
- 김정하, "현대 패션에 나타난 기모노 스타일에 관한 연구 - 2005~2010년도 컬렉션을 중심으로 -", 한국디자인문화학회지, 16(2), pp.129~144 (2010), 한국디자인문화학회
- "Murakami, pop art maestro" (2010)[URL]
- Kim, M. J., "A study on eclectic trend expressed in the late 20th century' s fashion", 석사, pp.1996
- 김선영, "현대패션에 나타난 차이니즘(Chinesm)에 관한 연구", 복식문화연구, 14(2), pp.44~57 (2006), 복식문화학회
- Kim, Y. J., "Understanding of costume aesthetics" (1998), Gyeongchunsa
- Kim, Y. S., "A study on traditional colors of clothes in Korea", 박사, pp.1998
- 고영숙, "자포니슴(Japonisme)에 나타난 복식미 연구", 패션 비즈니스, 13(2), pp.30~49 (2009), 한국패션비즈니스학회
- Koren, L., "New fashion in Japan" (1984), Kodansha
- 곽보영, "아르누보 장신구에 표현된 자포니즘 예술 특성", 복식, 59(7), pp.114~126 (2009), 한국복식학회
- 이은령, "Japanism을 반영한 패션 디자인 전개에 관한 비교 연구", 복식, 54(2), pp.39~52 (2004), 한국복식학회
- "Louis, V." (2012)[URL]
- "Marc, J." (2012)[URL]
- "Moschino" (2012)[URL]
- Munsterberg, H., "The Japanese Kimono" (1996), Oxford university press
- "Pop art & Louis Vuitton" (2009)[URL]
- "Prada" (2012)[URL]
- "Proenza, S." (2012)[URL]
- Sichel, M., "Japan" (1987), Batstford
- 손우승, "한중일의 전통의복을 통해 본 민족 정체성", 비교민속학, 34(34), pp.299~335 (2007), 비교민속학회
- The Japanese Language and Literature Association of Korea, "Ke-da are paired" (2003), Geulroseum
- The Textile Museum, "The Kimino inspiration" (1996), Pomegranate
- "Tibi" (2012)[URL]
- "Unoqlo launched Naruto UT series" (2011)[URL]
- "Victor&Rolf" (2012)[URL]
- Yanaki, M., "Chosun and art" (1994), Shingumunhwasa
- Yoo, J. J., "A study on the Japanese fabric pattern", 석사, pp.1996
- Yum, H. J., "A study on the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s", Journal of Fashion Business, 5(3), pp.95~109 (2001)
- Yun, S. I., "Japan made a strong cultural code16" (2000), Namuwasup
