본문 바로가기
KERD
논문KCI 등재

말레비치의 “Victory Over the Sun”이 현대 패션디자인에 미친 영향: Martin Margiela를 중심으로

A study of the influences of Malevich’s “Victory Over the Sun” on contemporary fashion design: Focused on Martin Margiela

0

조회

0

다운로드

1

인용

0

참고문헌

키워드

주제분류생활과학

초록

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance “Victory Over the Sun” was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. “Victory Over the Sun” did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in “Victory Over the Sun”, and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on “Victory Over the Sun” from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on “Victory Over the Sun”. and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

Abstract

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance “Victory Over the Sun” was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. “Victory Over the Sun” did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in “Victory Over the Sun”, and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on “Victory Over the Sun” from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on “Victory Over the Sun”. and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

참고문헌 (43)

  1. "The home for adventurous artists, audiences, and ideas"[URL]
  2. Bartlett, R., "Victory over the Sun : The world’s first futurist opera" (2012), University of Exeter Press
  3. Bowlt, J. E., "Neo-primitivism and Russian painting", The Burlington Magazine, 116(852), pp.133~140 (1974)
  4. Bowlt, J. E., "The silver age : Russian art of the early twentieth century and the"World of art"group" (1982), Oriental Research Partners
  5. Bowlt, J. E., "Russian art of the avant-garde : Theory and criticism. 1902-1934" (1976), Thames & Hudson
  6. "1983: Victory Over the Sun" (2012)[URL]
  7. Compton, S., "Malevich and the fourth dimension", Studio International, 187(965), pp.190~195 (1974)
  8. David, E., "New worlds : Russian art & society 1900-1937" (1986), Rizzoli
  9. Charlotte Douglas, "The New Russian Art and Italian Futurism", Art Journal, 34(3), pp.229~239 (1975), JSTOR[DOI]
  10. Douglas, C., "Swans of other world : Kazimir Malevich and the origins of abstraction in Russia" (1980), UMI Research Press
  11. Charlotte Douglas, "Victory Over the Sun", Russian History, 8(1), pp.69~89 (1981), Brill Academic Publishers[DOI]
  12. "The performative body"[URL]
  13. "Maison Martin Margiela SS 2013" (2012)[URL]
  14. Gray, C., "The Russian experiment in art 1863-1922" (1986), Thames & Hudson
  15. Henderson, L., "The merging of time and space : "The fourth dimension"in Russia from Ouspensky to Malevich", The Structurist, 15, pp.97~108 (1975)
  16. Hulten, P., "Futurism & futurisms" (1987), Thames & Hudson
  17. Lee, S. M., "Malevich’s stage and costume design for the opera <Victory over the sun>", master, pp.2006
  18. Malevich, K., "Theories of Modern Art: A source book by artists and critics", pp.341~345 (1968), University of California Press
  19. Malevich, K., "Essays on Art 1915-1933. 2vol" (1971), Copenhagen
  20. 박윤정, "러시아 절대주의 예술의상 연구 - 카시미르 말레비치의 예술작품을 중심으로 -", 복식문화연구, 17(6), pp.1083~1098 (2009), 복식문화학회
  21. 박윤정, "이탈리아와 러시아 전위(Avant-Garde) 예술의상 디자인 연구 - 미래주의(Futurism)와 구성주의(Constructivism)를 중심으로 -", 복식문화연구, 19(1), pp.128~149 (2011), 복식문화학회
  22. Rudenstine, A. Z., "Russian avant-garde Art : The George Costakis collection" (1981), Abrams
  23. "The Russian avantgarde is back and is fiercer than ever" (2014)[URL]
  24. Schouvaloff, A., "The Art of ballets Russes: The serge lifar collection of theater designs, costumes, and paintings at the Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartford, Connecticut" (1997), Yale University Press in association with the Wadsworth Atheneum
  25. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2009 Ready-to- Wear" (2008)[URL]
  26. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2009 Ready-toVol. Wear" (2009)[URL]
  27. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2009 Readyto- Wear" (2009)[URL]
  28. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2009 Readyto- Wear" (2009)[URL]
  29. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2011 Readyto- Wear" (2010)[URL]
  30. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2011 Readyto- Wear" (2010)[URL]
  31. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2011 Readyto- Wear" (2010)[URL]
  32. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2011 Readyto- Wear" (2010)[URL]
  33. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2012 Couture" (2012)[URL]
  34. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2012 Readyto- Wear" (2012)[URL]
  35. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2012 Readyto- Wear" (2012)[URL]
  36. "Maison Margiela: Fall 2012 Readyto- Wear" (2012)[URL]
  37. "Maison Margiela: Spring 2013 Readyto- Wear" (2012)[URL]
  38. "Comme des Garçons: Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear" (2014)[URL]
  39. "Jean-Pierre Braganza: Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear" (2014)[URL]
  40. "Junya Watanabe: Spring 2015 Readyto- Wear" (2014)[URL]
  41. "Mugler: Resort 2015" (2014)[URL]
  42. "Maison Martin Margiela" (2015)[URL]
  43. Zhadova, L. A., "Malevich : Suprematism and revolution in Russia art 1910-1930" (1982), Thames and Hudson

관련 논문AI추천

이 간행물의 다른 논문 (13건)