유럽 골드워크 자수의 시대별 변천과 사회ㆍ문화적 가치
Transition and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery in Europe
0
조회
0
다운로드
2
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the “Maaseik fragments” in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.
Abstract
Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the “Maaseik fragments” in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.
참고문헌 (62)
- 21st Century Research Society, "하룻밤에 읽는색의 문화사" (2004), Yedam
- Anawalt, P., "The worldwide history of dress" (2009), Wisdomhouse
- "Faltwrom"[URL]
- Boehn, M. V., "Die mode" (2000), Hangilart
- Braudel, F., "Civilisation materielle, economie et capitalisme" (1992), University of California Press
- Brown, M., "Goldwork embroidery : Designs and projects" (2007), Sally Milner Publishing
- "수놓은 군복․청바지… 패션계 몰아친 자수 열풍" (2017)[URL]
- "공방컬렉션"[URL]
- 조경숙, "프랑스 패션 파워 형성의 배경이 된 사회·문화적 요인", 복식, 66(2), pp.32~44 (2016), 한국복식학회
- "국립한경대, 대한제국‘문관대례복’ 재현" (2014)[URL]
- 최선영, "중세 그리스도 세례 도상의 신체와 복식에 나타난 신성과 인성", 복식, 64(5), pp.168~183 (2014), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- Edna, W., "Fashion: Gold dots embroidered on black Tulle", Silver embroidery on stiffened chiffon, 1930, pp.76(5), ~
- Elias, N., "Uber den prozeß der zivilisation" (1999), Hangilsa
- Entwistle, J., "The fashioned body" (2013), Hansung University
- "François lesage"[URL]
- Francoise, T., "The art of embroidery : Inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces" (2007), Thames & Hudson
- Gombrich, E., "The story of art Vol. 16" (2017), Yekyong
- "Bodice"[URL]
- 한순자, "근대기(17C-19C) 남성복에 나타난 군복의 영향요인", 한복문화, 19(4), pp.93~108 (2016), 한복문화학회[DOI]
- Hart, A., "Seventeenth and eighteenthcentury fashion in detail" (2009), V & A Publishing
- "Burse"[URL]
- "Royal wedding gowns" (2011)[URL]
- Jung, H. S., "서양복식문화사" (1997), Kyomunsa
- Jung, J. N., "A study on character of religious motive in modern fashion design of 1990’s", The Korean Society of Costume, 51(5), pp.45~59 (2001)
- 정윤희, "現代패션에 나타난 고저스(Gorgeous )이미지에 關한 硏究 -中世비잔틴 時代의 이미지를 中心으로 -", 패션 비즈니스, 6(5), pp.48~58 (2002), 한국패션비즈니스학회
- Kang, R. A., "A study on the symbolic characteristics of medieval heraldry in the modern fashion", Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 44, pp.153~167 (1999)
- "Cope of the order of golden fleece"[URL]
- 김해연, "오페라 <La Serva Padrona> 무대의상의 현대적 재해석 - 로코코시대의 장식요소를 중심으로 -", 복식문화연구, 25(4), pp.458~475 (2017), 복식문화학회[DOI]
- 김진구, "사회ㆍ문화적 환경이 모자의 변천에 미친 영향 -19세기 유럽을 중심으로-", 복식문화연구, 9(2), pp.295~907 (2001), 복식문화학회
- 김민제, "영국 헨리 8세 시대 의복에 관한 사회적 인식 ―1510년대를 중심으로―", 영국연구, (17), pp.110~139 (2007), 영국사학회[DOI]
- Kim, M. J., "서양패션 멀티콘텐츠" (2010), Kyomunsa
- Kim, S. Y., "A study on contemporary fashion expressed in haute couture", The Korean Society of Costume, 51(6), pp.147~165 (2001)
- 고현진, "패션 디자인을 통한 정치·사회적 발언", 복식, 62(5), pp.108~124 (2012), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- Koh, A. R., "서양의 복식문화와 역사" (2008), Kyomunsa
- "The handbook of needlework" (1846)[URL]
- Lee, J. E., "귀족의 시대 탐미의 발견" (2019), Myoohsa
- 이경희, "유럽에서의 자수의 변천", 한국의류산업학회지, 11(2), pp.231~241 (2009), 한국의류산업학회
- 이경미, "대한제국기 서구식 문관대례복 상의 수장(袖章)의 자수 연구", 한복문화, 18(4), pp.35~48 (2015), 한복문화학회[DOI]
- 이민선, "권력과 남성 패션에 표현된 미적 이미지", 복식문화연구, 11(2), pp.177~192 (2003), 복식문화학회
- Lee, S. H., "A study of costume types and background of occurrence in the era of renaissance", The Korean Society of Costume, 30(30), pp.275~294 (1996)
- 이순홍, "서양 복식사에 나타난 의상장식에 관한 연구", 복식문화연구, 11(1), pp.20~46 (2003), 복식문화학회
- Martin, R. H., "Haute couture" (1995), Metropolitan Museum of Art
- "Worth & Mainbocher"[URL]
- "Chasuble"[URL]
- "Queen Elizabeth 1"[URL]
- 이경희, "패션 컬렉션에 나타난 자수 디자인의 특성", 한국의류산업학회지, 12(1), pp.10~20 (2010), 한국의류산업학회
- Park, J. S., "패션과 권력" (2010), Seoul University
- Pastoureau, M., "Les couleurs expliquees en images" (2020), Artculture
- RSN., "The royal school of needlework book of embroidery" (2018), Search Press Limited
- "Goldwork embroidery threads and metals explained" (2020)[URL]
- Scott, A., "AZ of goldwork with silk embroidery" (2008), Country Bumpkin
- Sim, Y. O., "한국 직물 오천년" (2002), Institute for studies of Ancient Textiles
- 심연옥, "직금ᆞ자수에 사용된 금사의 형태와 특징 비교 고찰", 복식, 63(7), pp.79~93 (2013), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- "Maaseik embroideries"[URL]
- "St. Cuthbert embroideries"[URL]
- "The syon cope"[URL]
- "Jacket"[URL]
- "The John of thanet panel"[URL]
- "Mantua"[URL]
- "Dress"[URL]
- "Henry Ⅷ’s portrait"[URL]
- 양숙희, "여성 정치 리더의 역할 수행을 위한 패션 스타일 연구 - 율리아 티모센코를 중심으로 -", 복식문화연구, 19(1), pp.104~118 (2011), 복식문화학회[DOI]