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천연염료를 이용한 양모 직물의 심색 재현성에 대한 연구

A study on the deep color for the wool fabrics dyeing using natural dyestuffs

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키워드

주제분류생활과학

초록

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3—4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

Abstract

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3—4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

참고문헌 (11)

  1. 최인려, "머위 추출액에 의한 직물의 염색성과 자외선 차단성", 복식문화연구, 19(1), pp.96~103 (2011), 복식문화학회[DOI]
  2. 전미선, "솔잎 추출물의 성분 분석 및 염색물의 건강안전 기능성 평가", 복식문화연구, 18(2), pp.371~381 (2010), 복식문화학회[DOI]
  3. 김혜림, "3원색 분산염료를 이용한 PET 섬유의 Black 염색", 한국섬유공학회지, 45(6), pp.331~336 (2008), 한국섬유공학회
  4. 김미경, "천연발효에 의한 쪽염색 직물의 특성에 관한 연구", 패션과 니트, 11(3), pp.1~9 (2013), 한국니트디자인학회[DOI]
  5. 김미경, "천연염료의 복합염색에 관한 연구: 셀룰로오즈계 섬유를 중심으로", 복식문화연구, 24(4), pp.431~440 (2016), 복식문화학회[DOI]
  6. 김월순, "천연염재의 자외선 차단성능 연구", 복식문화연구, 12(1), pp.1~11 (2004), 복식문화학회
  7. 이재정, "섬유컬러 그루핑 체계에 관한 연구", 디자인학연구, 17(3), pp.27~38 (2004), 한국디자인학회
  8. 이상현, "천연염색 재료를 이용한 한지의 검정색 염색 특성", 목재공학, 37(4), pp.406~413 (2009), 한국목재공학회
  9. 박아영, "견직물의 자초 염색 시 오배자의 매염 효과", 한국의류학회지, 33(2), pp.256~265 (2009), 한국의류학회
  10. 신남희, "오배자에 의한 회색계열 염색에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 7(5), pp.547~552 (2005), 한국의류산업학회
  11. Yoon, S. H., "Stabilization of natural dyeing stuff and development of dyeing properties", Fiber Technology and Industry, 9(2), pp.162~176 (2005)

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