16세기 네덜란드 서민복식에 대한 연구- 피터 브뤼겔의 회화 작품에 묘사된 남성복식을 중심으로 -
A study on Dutch populace’s costumes in the 16th century- Focusing on men’s costumes depicted in Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s paintings -
0
조회
0
다운로드
0
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525–1569), a representative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace’s and nobles’ costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace’s chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace’s coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace’s costumes are imitative—reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats—while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace’s perception of the costume at the time.
Abstract
This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525–1569), a representative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace’s and nobles’ costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace’s chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace’s coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace’s costumes are imitative—reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats—while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace’s perception of the costume at the time.
참고문헌 (21)
- Allegretti, P., "Brueghel" (2010), Yegyeong
- Arnold, J., "Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620" (1985), Macmillan
- 배수정, "프란시스코 데 고야의 회화에 나타난 18세기 스페인 마호(majo), 마하(maja) 서민복식의 상향전파 사례연구", 한국의류학회지, 42(1), pp.74~87 (2018), 한국의류학회
- Chung, H. S., "A history of fashion" (2010), Gyomunsa
- Gibson, "The greatest Flemish painter in the 16th century" (2001), Sigongsa
- Gombrich, E. H., "The story of art" (1999), Yegyeong
- Han, E. S., "A study on the clothing of the common people in the modern era -Focusing on the history of western costume-", master, pp.1999
- Harbison, C., "The art of the Northern Renaissance" (2001), Yegyeong
- Hoekstra, F., "Pieter Bruegel" (1994), Park Lane
- Jockel, N., "Pieter Bruegel: Das Schlaraffenlald" (2006), Random House Joongang Inc
- 김양희, "18세기후기 프랑스 여자 서민복 꺄라꼬(caraco)와 쥐뽕(jupon) 고증 및 디자인 연구", 복식, 69(3), pp.96~118 (2019), 한국복식학회[DOI]
- 김양희, "17~18세기 프랑스 서민복식 연구", 한국의류학회지, 36(9), pp.901~915 (2012), 한국의류학회
- Lee, J. O., "A history of western clothes" (1999), Hyungseol Publisher
- Lee, S. H., "World costume and fashion information" (2002), Gyomunsa
- Oberthaler, E., "Bruegel : The master" (2018), Thames & Hudson
- "Populace, Daum Encyclopedia" (2022)[URL]
- Roberts-Jones, P., "Fall of Icarus" (1974), Art Publishing House
- Shin, S. O., "A history of costume in the west" (2006), Suhaksa
- Stechow, W., "Pieter Bruegel: The elder" (1990), Harry N. Abrams
- Yoo, J. L., "A study on the pictoral composition and symbolism of Pieter Bruegel", Journal of Western Art History, 4, pp.59~91 (1992)
- Yoo, J. L., "A study on the civil costumes appeared on Dutch paintings in the 17th century", Journal of Fashion Business, 3(2), pp.37~47 (1999)