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현대 니트 패션에 표현된 젠더 플루이드 특성 연구

A study on the characteristics of gender fluidity expressed in modern knit fashion

이연지|엄소희
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)|2023.02|복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)|제31권 제1호|pp. 91-106

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키워드

니트 패션knit fashion젠더 플루이드gender fluid양성적 절충성해체적 과장성노출적 관능성androgynous compromisedismantling exaggerationexposed sensuality
주제분류생활과학

초록

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity—viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum—is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017–fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

Abstract

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity—viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum—is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017–fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

참고문헌 (54)

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현대 패션에 나타난 젠더 뉴트럴 스타일에 관한 연구곽태기, 이지은한국의상디자인학회 · 한국의상디자인학회지2020 · 제22권 제3호페미니즘 테마 컬렉션에 표현된 젠더 플루이드 이미지임민정한국의상디자인학회 · 한국의상디자인학회지2018 · 제20권 제3호현대 여성 컬렉션에 나타난 젠더리스 스타일의 표현특성김지혜, 이연희복식문화학회 · 복식문화연구2016 · 제24권 제6호현대 패션에 나타난 젠더리스 경향엄신, 김현주한국디지털정책학회 · 디지털융복합연구2022 · 제20권 제4호현대 니트 패션에 표현된 혼합현상의 미적특성김경희한국니트디자인학회 · 패션과 니트2018 · 제16권 제2호니트 패션에 나타난 해체주의 표현특성이유미한국니트디자인학회 · 패션과 니트2016 · 제14권 제1호

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