＂Look What a Wardrobe Here Is for Thee＂: Costume in the Early Modern Theatre
"Look What a Wardrobe Here Is for Thee": Costume in the Early Modern Theatre
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Abstract
This essay reviews a series of extant evidence relating to early modern costume and reappraises the commonly held belief that actors wore contemporary clothes in Shakespeare's theatre and that thus they had no concerns for historically or geographically accurate representation of the dramatic world. I argue that Shakespeare's stage did make efforts to represent the play with some chronotopic precision within their resources. The purpose of this essay is twofold: to highlight the materiality of the early modern theatre, particularly costume, as an active participant in the formation of Elizabethan and Jacobean culture as well as in the production of theatrical meanings, and to challenge the universality myth of Shakespeare that transcends time and space by showing that the setting in his plays was not a mere label that could be anywhere and anytime but had significance of its own.For this purpose, I examine the "period" costumes recorded in the wardrobe inventories for the Lord Admiral's Men and estimate their impact on the stage, which, I would argue, was far greater than their number suggests. We also need to gauge the range of contemporary clothes in early modern England. I underscore the fact that "foreign" fashion was an essential part of Elizabethan and Jacobean sartorial culture. Despite the attempt at chronotopic accuracy, however, the representation of the dramatic world was far from complete; anachronism was inevitable on the stage. Anachronism has been traditionally taken to signal inconsistencies and disregard for chronotopicity in the early modern theatre; rather, it is a gargantuan desire typical to the Renaissance to encompass both past and present, fiction and reality. Like a "Mbius strip," as Leah Marcus terms it, what relates Shakespeare more cogently to the modern audience is such chronotopic pluralism that encourages dialogues between his times and ours.(Yonsei University)
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