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편성조직에 따른 니트패턴의 패션감성 연구

Study on Sensibility of Knit by Structural Design Patterns

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키워드

주제분류의상

초록

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant (‘elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically ‘active.' Furthermore, a ‘country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as ‘sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have ‘modern' images. Lace II was regarded as ‘ethnic', while racking II was said to have a ‘romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly (‘manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant (‘elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically ‘active.' Furthermore, a ‘country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as ‘sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have ‘modern' images. Lace II was regarded as ‘ethnic', while racking II was said to have a ‘romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly (‘manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

참고문헌 (18)

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  3. 이선희, "니트의 편직기법에 의한 디자인 연구 -작품제작을 중심으로-", 복식, 53(1), pp.99~116 (2003), 한국복식학회
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  6. 김유진, "현대패션에 대한 감성과 감정의 관계 연구(제1보)", 한국의류학회지, 27(3), pp.418~428 (2003), 한국의류학회
  7. 조혜진, "편성조직이 위편성물의 태에 미치는 영향", 박사, pp.2003
  8. 주정아, "위편성물 소재의 구성특성이 주관적 질감 및 감성에 미치는 영향", 한국의류학회지, 28(11), pp.1516~1523 (2004), 한국의류학회
  9. Collins & Brown, "harmony guides 450 knitting stitches. Vol. 2" (1998)
  10. Collins & Brown, "The harmony guides 250 creative knitting stitches. Vol. 4" (1998)
  11. Guisy e Giuliano Marelli, "100 Nuovi punti a maglia", Edizioni paoline, ~ (1989)
  12. Katharina Buss, "Big book of knitting" (1999), Sterling publishing Co., Inc
  13. Moda linea maglia, "STUDIO SABATINI snc", Milano, ~ (2000)
  14. Moda linea maglia, "STUDIO SABATINI snc", Milano, ~ (2001)
  15. 15)Moda linea maglia, "STUDIO SABATINI snc", Milano, ~ (2003)
  16. 16)Moda linea maglia, "STUDIO SABATINI snc", Milano, ~ (2004)
  17. 김미지자, "Texture와 Color Coordination의 감성공학적 Technology에 관한 연구", 박사, pp.1996
  18. 나영주, "여성복 텍스타일디자인의 특성과 감성에 관한 연구", 한국의류산업학회지, 2(3), pp.198~204 (2000)

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