방글라데시의 봉제업: 희망으로의 험로(險路)
Bangladesh Garment Industry: A Dangerous Road to Happiness
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방글라데시 봉제업은 중국에 이어 세계 2위의 수출을 기록하고 있으며 국가의 연간 수출액의 80%를 차지하는 중요한 사업으로 국가 경제와 고용 창출에 크게 기여해 왔다. 그러나 최근의 타즈린(Tazreen)공장 화재나 라나 플라자(Rana Plaza)의 붕괴 등 일련의 참사로 열악하고 위험한 근로 환경과 근로자의 고통이 전 세계인의 주목을 받게 되었다. 이 글에서는 방글라데시의 봉제업이 지닌 명암과 일련의 참사의 배경을 탐구하고자 했다. 우선 방글라데시 봉제업의 역사적 발전 과정을 살펴보고 거시경제, 여성의 임파워먼트, 빈곤 감소 등에 대한 기여를 알아보았다. 또한, 현재 봉제업 근로자가 처한 근로 조건과 작업 환경을 여러 측면에서 자세하게 분석했다. 그리고 근로자가 처한 이러한 현실이 세계화의 과정에서 필연적으로 나타나는 '바닥으로의 경주 현상'인지 아니면 빈곤 탈출의 과정에서 불가피하게 겪어야 하는 희망을 향한 하나의 과정인지에 대해 논의했다. 끝으로 방글라데시 봉제업의 초창기 기여자이며 이 분야의 가장 큰 투자자인 한국 기업들을 위한 시사점도 제시했다.
Abstract
The garment industry has been an extremely important part of Bangladesh’s economy for a long time. Bangladesh is the world’s second biggest exporter of garments after China. Readymade garments make up 80 percent of the country’s $24 billion in annual exports and 15 percent share of GDP. But a series of industrial accident like the Tazreen factory fire and the Rana Plaza collapse attracted much attention of the world for the harsh and dangerous reality facing Bangladesh garment workers. It has also led to widespread discussion about corporate social responsibilities across the global supply chains. This paper investigates the bright and dark side of Bangladesh garment industry and the real background of a series of industrial disasters. At first, it describes the historical development of Bangladesh garment industry and its contribution to the macro economy and the empowerment of women and poverty reduction of Bangladesh. This paper also investigates the working conditions of garment workers including low wage and long working hours. Other addressed topics include unsafe environment, poor social compliance and labor rights, unstable industrial relations, illegal labor practices, including others. This paper also discusses the debates on the validity of “a race to the bottom” as a theory that could explain the reality facing the Bangladesh garment industry. Lastly some implications are suggested for Korean clothing companies in Bangladesh that have been the leading foreign investors in the garment sector.
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