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편성조직이 위편성물의 드레이프성에 미치는 영향

Effect of Knit Structure on the Drapability of Weft Knitted Fabrics

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초록

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric. For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. As a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as . In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient() can be represented by     

Abstract

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric. For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. As a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as . In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient() can be represented by     

참고문헌 (15)

  1. 권오경, "편성조건이 Interlock 편성포의 물성에 미치는 영향(Ⅲ)", 한국섬유공학회지, 33(3), pp.240~247 (1996)
  2. 권헌선, "기모직물의 가공공정 및 기모횟수가 역학적 특성치에 미치는 영향(Ⅱ)", 한국의류학회지, 18(5), pp.595~601 (1994)
  3. 기희숙, "3차원 형상계측에 의한 니트 플레어스커트의 입체형상에 관한 연구", 한국의상디자인학회지, 13(2), pp.103~119 (2011), 한국의상디자인학회
  4. 박창규, "화상처리기법을 활용한 천의 드레이프성의 정량적 평가방법", 한국의류산업학회지, 4(3), pp.284~288 (2002), 한국의류산업학회
  5. 서정권, "직물의 평면 드레이프 계수와 측면 드레이프 계수와의 관계", 한국의류학회지, 20(3), pp.519~526 (1996)
  6. 성수광, "피치스킨 가공직물의 역학적 특성이 드레이프성에 미치는 영향", 한국의류학회지, 19(4), pp.684~695 (1995)
  7. 이광배, "직물의 드레이프성에 관한 연구(I)", 한국섬유공학회지, 21(1), pp.1~9 (1984)
  8. 이덕래, "면", 마 혼방비율이 편성물의 드레이프성에 미치는 영향, 1996, pp.33(12), 1074~1082
  9. 이명희, "시각적 평가에 의한 개더 드레이프 형상 분석", 한국의상디자인학회지, 7(1), pp.31~38 (2005), 한국의상디자인학회
  10. 최연주, "방추가공된 셀룰로오스 소재의 드레이프성", 한국의류학회지, 29(2), pp.340~346 (2005), 한국의류학회
  11. Chu C. C., "Investigation of the Factors Affecting the Drapeability of Fabrics", Textile Research Journal, 30(1), pp.66~67 (1960)
  12. Kobayashi S., "Drapeability of Fabric and Clothes", Sen-I Gakkaishi, pp.P640~P644 (1991)
  13. Niwa M., "Relation between the Drapability and Mechanical Properties of the Fabrics", Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 39(11), pp.T161~T168 (1986)
  14. Tanabe H., "Relation between the Drape Coefficient and Mechanical Properties of the Fabric", Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 27(12), pp.T201~T207 (1974)
  15. Uchiyama S., "A Consideration on the Drapability of Woven Fabrics", Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 37(5), pp.207~212 (1984)

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