조선시대 방령의 확산과정과 그 의미

Abstract

There was confusion has been arisen in the study of Bangryeong(方領) due to the lack of formal term or standard for classification while there has been various types of Bangryeong throughout Joseon period. Thereupon, research material was decided as twenty three relics of Bangryeong together with literature data of Simeui(深衣) and Hakchangeui(鶴衣) as well as pictorial data such as portraits and genre pictures. Bangryeong is defined as a style of right-angled collar with a square neckline for the comfort of the wearer. Subdivision is conducted under existing standard of clothes terms ; Bangryeong-Sangeui(方領上衣), Bagnryeong-Po(方領袍), and Bangryeong-Deograe. Following shows the result of the research on the characteristics and foundation of their diffusion.First, Bangryeong-Sangeui is found from the relics from the late 15th C. to the early 17th C. The robe has sleeves and Seop with a characteristic Hudan style - shorter back length than the front. Second, Bangryeong-Po, worn around the Imjinwaeran period (Japanese invasion of Joseon dynasty (1592-1598)) till the early 18th C., is a long robe with long sleeves, Seop and Mu, and even length front and back. Third, Bangryeong-Deograe has no sleeves, Mu, and Seop. It was worn from the late 16th C till the mid 18th C. Dapho as well as Jeonbok, Banbi, and Baeja come under this category. Bangryeong-Deograe was recognised as a new design and diffused to various types of robes of mostly officials and Confucians throughout Joseon period.