고려불화에 표현된 복식 문양 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to classify the patterns on costumes in the buddhist painting in Goryeo dynasty and compare with textiles which excavated from buddhist statues in 14th century. The following is a summary of this study. First, The patterns of costumes in Goryeo buddhist painting are geometric pattern(hexagon, coin shaped, mesh, snow), floral roundel, lotus, small floral units, sea pomegranate, litch, cloud, wave pattern, dragon, phoenix, vajra pattern, treasures pattern and Buddha-Bodhisattva pattern. Second, Geometrical pattern was used much more than other period. These geometric patterns may either be arranged as a single pattern in overall textiles, or compose a double pattern, along with other different patterns as the background design. The medallions [Gwamun] was popularized, where the pattern's boundary was drawn by outlining a certain shape on the background, then inserting the main pattern inside. Big roundels and small unit of patterns were generally used. The overall appearance is formed by an arrangement of the unit pattern, similar to stacking bricks, where the upper and lower patterns are arranged as being stagger, and changing the direction of the patterns in the upper and lower layers. Third, the patterns of costumes in Goryeo buddhist painting was very similar to the real textiles excavated from Goryeo dynasty. So we could find the patterns on costumes in painting were the depictions of the textile which actually were used in Goryeo period.