전통계급과 복색의 변화현상 -한·중 왕복 색명의 상징적 의미 상관-

Abstract

The purpose of this paper is to make people to grasp better understanding of traditional colors, especially the colors of ceremonial costume, Myunbok(冕服) and Sangbok(常服), which were known to be made for kings and emperors. Myunbok was Chinese traditional ceremonial costume with Jik-Ryung (straight collars). Sangbok originated from west Asia to china and it was made with Dan-Ryung (round collars).Myunbok was composed of a long jacket and a skirt. The color of the long jacket is black(玄) which symbolized the heaven. The color of the skirt is Yellowish-red(), which means the earth. Therefore, these two colors were used only for kings and emperors. Sangbok was composed of a out robe and inner wears. The color of the robe in Sangbok was red(緋色) in Buk-ju(北周), but was changed into yellow in Sui(隋) dynasty. But it was changed gradually reddish-yellow color and was continued until Wing(元) dynasty. The reason why it was that particular color, reddish-yellow is because of the symbol of the powerful authority of the emperor. In Ming(明) dynasty, the color changed back to yellow. At this time, the twelve patterns on the robe had far more emphasis than the colors.The red color was the symbol of lower level than the yellow. In Chosun dynasty of Korea, all kings except Kojong(高宗) used red color in their robes. It meant that the king of Chosun stands lower than the emperors of China. However, the color used on the robes for kings was deep-red(大紅色) to distinguish between the king and the others. Besides, deep-red also meant the authority of kings. Thus, black, yellowish-red, yellow, deep-red, and reddish-yellow were the symbols of emperors and kings.