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현대 헤어스타일에 나타난 아르누보시대 헤어스타일 연구

A study on art nouveau hair style of modern hair style

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The hairstyle goes through continuous changes and development in the current of the times, undergoing political, economic and social influences in those days. It is, therefore, formed on the basis of the art style, reflecting mental culture and the trend of art in those days. According to this, this paper aims at understanding periodic background and characteristics of art nouveau style, and analyzing harirstyles of the times to inquire into how art nouveau style has an effect on modern hairstyle. The art nouveau style from 1890s to 1910s, has its orgins in the 'Art and Crafts Movement' started from Morris's denial of machin production and developed as an art of new value and meaning in many fields. This style chiefly used current and organic curved line than straight line. And the hairstyle of art nouveau were the general silhouettes of Pompadour as chignon styles that backcomb to do one's hair up in the back part of a hair. The pompadour style had bigger effect on modern Up-style, and was the most widely used in modern time. According to the hairstyles from the latter half of the 19C to the 20C, hairstyles that undergo an influence of art nouveau and art d'eco had a different characteristic each other. And the hairstyles coexisted together, being popular on shifts by social and cultural influences. Like this, the art nouveau and art d'eco styles had a great effect on hairstyles as well as the decorative and formative arts. Consequently, the hairstyles in art nouveau and art d'eco will develop through a little change by social and cultural influences such as uncertain future, enjoyment and wellbeing that modern people pursues in the coming future as well as modern times. And the hairstyles will be a help to the development of Korean beauty industry.

Abstract

The hairstyle goes through continuous changes and development in the current of the times, undergoing political, economic and social influences in those days. It is, therefore, formed on the basis of the art style, reflecting mental culture and the trend of art in those days. According to this, this paper aims at understanding periodic background and characteristics of art nouveau style, and analyzing harirstyles of the times to inquire into how art nouveau style has an effect on modern hairstyle. The art nouveau style from 1890s to 1910s, has its orgins in the 'Art and Crafts Movement' started from Morris's denial of machin production and developed as an art of new value and meaning in many fields. This style chiefly used current and organic curved line than straight line. And the hairstyle of art nouveau were the general silhouettes of Pompadour as chignon styles that backcomb to do one's hair up in the back part of a hair. The pompadour style had bigger effect on modern Up-style, and was the most widely used in modern time. According to the hairstyles from the latter half of the 19C to the 20C, hairstyles that undergo an influence of art nouveau and art d'eco had a different characteristic each other. And the hairstyles coexisted together, being popular on shifts by social and cultural influences. Like this, the art nouveau and art d'eco styles had a great effect on hairstyles as well as the decorative and formative arts. Consequently, the hairstyles in art nouveau and art d'eco will develop through a little change by social and cultural influences such as uncertain future, enjoyment and wellbeing that modern people pursues in the coming future as well as modern times. And the hairstyles will be a help to the development of Korean beauty industry.

참고문헌 (21)

  1. 페니스타크외, "현대 디자인의 전개", pp.40~ (1990), 미진사
  2. 정흥숙, "서양복식문화사", pp.338~ (1998), 교문사
  3. 권명광, "현대디자인사", pp.52~ (1992), 미진사
  4. "나비파(Nabis 波), <미술> 19세기 말 파리에서 생겨난 젊은 반인상주의 화가들의 모임. 세뤼지에(S‘erusier, P.)를 중심으로 일어났으며 고갱의 작품 경향을 새로운 계시로 받아들여 평면적·장식적 구성을 중시하였다", ~
  5. "퇴폐운동 (Decadent Movement), 문학에서는 원래 로마제국 말기의 변적인 문학의 특징을 가리켰으나 19세기 말에 보들레르와 베를렌의 영향을 받은 모리스 드 블래시, 로랑 다이아드, 로담 비크, J. 모러이스 등 상징파 시인들이 (데카담 : 1886~89)이라고 지칭하여, 이후 그들의 예술적 경향을 데카담스라고 평하였다", ~
  6. "예술가구(art furniture), 1868년경 영국에서 처음 사용. 건축 잡지에 한 건축사무소가 디자인한 가구를 ‘예술가구’라고 이름붙인데서 유래됨", ~
  7. 페니 스파크의, , op. cit, pp.40~ (1990)
  8. 정흥숙, , op. cit, pp.338~339 (1998)
  9. Thames, "Art Nouveau", pp.21~ (1964), schnmut
  10. 권명광, , op. cit, pp.60~ (1992)
  11. "나이나드(Naiad: 물의 정), 한 방울의 물이 여리게 떨어지는 흔들림", ~
  12. 페니스파크, , op. cit, pp.53~ (1990)
  13. 권명광, , op. cit, pp.49~ (1992)
  14. 페니스파크, , op. cit, pp.64~ (1990)
  15. 전선정, "미용미학과 미용문화사", pp.148~ (2002), 청구문화사
  16. 전선정, , op. cit, pp.149~ (2002)
  17. 곽형심, "헤어디자인", pp.72~ (2003), 청구문화사
  18. "깁슨걸 스타일 (Gibson girl style) 미국의 화가였던 찰스 다너 깁슨 (1867 ~1944) 이 그린 초상화에서 흔히 보던 1890년대 유행한 의상 스타일의 여성상을 깁슨걸이라 불렀다. 특징은 하이 네크, 어깨를 불룩하게 한 양다리 모양처럼 된 소매, 타이트한 웨이스트, 벨 모양의 스커트 등으로 S자형의 실루엣으로 되어있다", ~
  19. "깁슨걸 스타일 (Gibson girl style) 미국의 화가였던 찰스 다너 깁슨 (1867 ~1944) 이 그린 초상화에서 흔히 보던 1890년대 유행한 의상 스타일의 여성상을 깁슨걸이라 불렀다. 특징은 하이 네크, 어깨를 불룩하게 한 양다리 모양처럼 된 소매, 타이트한 웨이스트, 벨 모양의 스커트 등으로 S자형의 실루엣으로 되어있다", ~
  20. 정현진, "미용문화사", pp.83~ (2004), 광문각
  21. 김파라, "아르누보・아르데코 양식이 나타난 현대 헤어스타일 연구", 석사, pp.2008

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