송(宋)나라의 전통화장법과 영상매체에 재현된 화장법의 비교

Abstract

Chinese traditional make-up gives many motives and various idea for make-up artists and creaters. So that, traditional make-up in Song dynasty and reconstructed make-up in visual media were investigated for the comparison of both technical characters. The favorite color and pattern of foundation and cheek, form of eyebrows and lip make-up were analyzed and observed not only in old pictures, wall paintings and make-up related papers but also in two films (Fool hardiness and Banquet)and one drama (Generals of the Yang family) of Song dynasty. As the results, philosophy of back to the nature in Song dynasty were influenced to make-up culture and cause to the simple, light and elegance make-up style such as T-zone high light white skin and pink cheeks, wide round eyebrows style (Wallmi; moon like and Palzami; chinese alphabet eight) and small red lips were prefered in traditional make-up. Especially, T-zone hight light technique shows the new make-up style of three dimensional make-up. And the eyebrows make-up and lip-make-up of Dang dynasty were used partly until Song dynasty. And the color and painting technique of foundation and cheeks were fast similar to traditional make-up in reconstructed make-up of visual media. In contrast to the traditional make-up, the thick and short eyebrows in Banquet and wide and thick lips in Fool hardiness and Generals of the Yang family were shown in reconstructed expression. In conclusion,the technique of three dimensional make-up may be developed in Song dynasty. And production of either historical film nor fusion films must be need by proof of traditional make-up at the reconstruction time.