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크랜베리(Vaccinium macrocarpon)의 안토시아닌 색소를 이용한 모발 염색 특성

Properties of Hair Dye with Anthocyanin from Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon)

박철호|임종미
대한미용학회 (The Korean Society for Investigative Cosmetology)|2023.12|대한미용학회지 (Journal of Investigative Cosmetology)|제19권 제4호|pp. 277-284|DOI 10.15810/jic.2023.19.4.003

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AnthocyaninHair dyeingCranberryVaccinium macrocarpon

초록

The objective of this study is to determine the effectiveness of anthocyanin pigments in cranberry as a natural hair colorant. Variations in the color of hair dye with cranberry were observed by varying the temperature, dyeing time, and pH of the extract at the maximum absorption wavelength for anthocyanin. FeSO4, MgSO4, MnSO4, CuSO4, AlK(SO4)2, CH3COOH, Co(NO3)2, CaCO3, and Na2CO3 were used as mordants for measurement of hair dyeability and color fastness using the mordant method. The results indicated that the maximum absorption wavelength of anthocyanin pigments was 540 nm. For anthocyanin pigments, the K/S (dye uptake) value showed an increasing trend, and then decreased with increasing dyeing time. The K/S value of cranberry was 33.866–44.822 and the optimal dyeing conditions included a temperature of 25℃ and dyeing time of 20 min. When the pH of cranberry was 2.48, the highest K/S value was 44.152 and the a* value was 4.965, resulting in observance of a bright red color. When the mordant was acidic, the a* value increased, and for the alkaline mordant, the b* value increased. According to the results from use of the mordant method, FeSO4, MnSO4 CuSO4, AlK(SO4)2, Co(NO3)2, CaCO3, and Na2CO3 showed the highest K/S values in pre-mordanting phase. The highest K/S values were observed for MnSO4 and CH3COOH in simultaneous mordanting. According to the results from use of the mordant concentration, FeSO4 showed the highest K/S value at a concentration of 1%. The highest K/S values were observed for CuSO4 and AlK(SO4)2 at a concentration of 15%. The highest K/S values were observed for Co(NO3)2 at a concentration of 20%. The K/S values for washing fastness ranged from 44.480-21.146. The results described above confirm the usefulness of cranberry as a natural hair dye, due to its capacity for producing a variety of hair colors when used with a mordant.

Abstract

The objective of this study is to determine the effectiveness of anthocyanin pigments in cranberry as a natural hair colorant. Variations in the color of hair dye with cranberry were observed by varying the temperature, dyeing time, and pH of the extract at the maximum absorption wavelength for anthocyanin. FeSO4, MgSO4, MnSO4, CuSO4, AlK(SO4)2, CH3COOH, Co(NO3)2, CaCO3, and Na2CO3 were used as mordants for measurement of hair dyeability and color fastness using the mordant method. The results indicated that the maximum absorption wavelength of anthocyanin pigments was 540 nm. For anthocyanin pigments, the K/S (dye uptake) value showed an increasing trend, and then decreased with increasing dyeing time. The K/S value of cranberry was 33.866–44.822 and the optimal dyeing conditions included a temperature of 25℃ and dyeing time of 20 min. When the pH of cranberry was 2.48, the highest K/S value was 44.152 and the a* value was 4.965, resulting in observance of a bright red color. When the mordant was acidic, the a* value increased, and for the alkaline mordant, the b* value increased. According to the results from use of the mordant method, FeSO4, MnSO4 CuSO4, AlK(SO4)2, Co(NO3)2, CaCO3, and Na2CO3 showed the highest K/S values in pre-mordanting phase. The highest K/S values were observed for MnSO4 and CH3COOH in simultaneous mordanting. According to the results from use of the mordant concentration, FeSO4 showed the highest K/S value at a concentration of 1%. The highest K/S values were observed for CuSO4 and AlK(SO4)2 at a concentration of 15%. The highest K/S values were observed for Co(NO3)2 at a concentration of 20%. The K/S values for washing fastness ranged from 44.480-21.146. The results described above confirm the usefulness of cranberry as a natural hair dye, due to its capacity for producing a variety of hair colors when used with a mordant.

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