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30대 남성 슬림 핏 재킷원형 패턴설계 제 1보- 4패널 재킷원형을 중심으로 -

Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30's Part 1 - Focusing on four-panel jacket sloper -

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초록

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Thenthe researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was onethirdof armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellentscores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease onthe sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armholedepth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armholelength. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

Abstract

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Thenthe researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was onethirdof armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellentscores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease onthe sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armholedepth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armholelength. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

참고문헌 (16)

  1. Ahn, S. W., "A study on the body cathexis and satisfaction with ready-to-wear fit of 20 to 59 year-old men", 석사, pp.2001
  2. Aldrich, W., "Metric pattern cutting for menswear-including unisex casual clothes-" (1985), Collins Professional Technical Books
  3. Cho, R. H., "Establishments of the suitable basic slim fit jacket pattern for man age of 18-24", 석사, pp.2008
  4. 최미성, "인체와 의복과의 공간적 감각에 따른 실루엣 변화에 관한 연구 -남성복 상의원형을 대상으로-", 한국의류산업학회지, 7(2), pp.225~230 (2005), 한국의류산업학회
  5. "Korea fashion market trend, the first half of 2012" (2012)[URL]
  6. 정재은, "男性 體型別 재킷 길 原型 (Block) 硏究", 패션 비즈니스, 10(1), pp.41~57 (2006), 한국패션비즈니스학회
  7. Kawashima, M., "Fundamentals of men's fashion design- A guide to tailored clothes" (1995), Fairchild Publications
  8. "Forget a uncle's suits- slim-fit blows up in menswear market" (2012)[URL]
  9. 김진선, "남성 재킷 패턴 설계에 관한 연구", 복식문화연구, 12(6), pp.57~74 (2004), 복식문화학회
  10. 김미정, "남성 캐주얼 재킷 원형 개발에 관한 연구", 한국의류학회지, 30(2), pp.207~220 (2006), 한국의류학회
  11. 김명옥, "30대 남성 소비자의 수트 스타일에 따른 구매 및 맞음새 조사", 복식문화연구, 19(1), pp.191~199 (2011), 복식문화학회
  12. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, "5th Report of Korean Body Measurements" (2004), Author
  13. Kwak, T. G., "남성복 패턴의 기법" (2008), Kyoungchunsa
  14. Nam, Y. J., "남성복 패턴메이킹" (2005), Kyohakyungusa
  15. Shin, H. J., "Development of original type of men's wear bodice", 석사, pp.2008
  16. 양정은, "중년 남성 캐주얼 슬림핏 재킷 패턴 개발", 한국디자인포럼, (32), pp.381~392 (2011), 한국디자인트렌드학회

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