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성인 여성의 연령대별 인체 부위 간 치수증감률을 반영한 재킷 그레이딩에 관한 연구

A Study on Split Grading Methods for Women’s Jackets and Increase Rate of Body Size of Women aged 30-50s

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키워드

주제분류생활과학

초록

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women’s wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

Abstract

This study investigated the location of grading lines and grading amount for a jacket item by the target age groups (20-30, 30-40, and 40-50) for 17 women’s wear brands. This study then utilized 7th SizeKorea data to analyze the increase rate of body size and to suggest the grading deviation distribution ratio of the jackets using regression analysis. The increase in neck girth of the jackets targeting aged 30-40s did not reflect the human body change rate. The shoulder length increased by 4.6%-8.1% with the bust girth increase; however, the brands produced longer shoulder length reflecting 20-35% of the bust girth increase. The armhole girth was 54.9% - 59.7% of bust circumstance increase rate. However, the 20-30 target age group brands distributed 80% of bust girth to armhole girth and the 30-40 and the 40-50 target age group brands distributed 50% of the bust girth to armhole. In particular, the 20-30 target age group brands were found to produce a large margin around the armhole. When it came to length items, the brands targeting 20-30s and the 40-50s reflected deviation distribution rate of length from underarm to waist and length from waist to hip in comparison with the overall jacket length deviation. The 30-40 target age group brands, 8 out of 20 brands distributed the jacket length deviation in the length from the back of neck to the underarm; consequently, only 22% percent should be distributed in this part.

참고문헌 (10)

  1. 최윤선, "국내 여성복 브랜드 그레이딩의 연령별 비교에 관한 연구 Ⅰ", 복식문화연구, 10(4), pp.377~391 (2002), 복식문화학회
  2. Cho, Y. K., "A study on split grading of the apparel CAD systems", Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 20(6), pp.947~961 (1996)
  3. 조진숙, "여성 의류 업체의 그레이딩 실태 연구", 한국의상디자인학회지, 4(3), pp.55~64 (2002), 한국의상디자인학회
  4. 정명숙, "인체 부위별 치수증감을 반영한 길 원형 그레이딩에 관한 연구", 한국지역사회생활과학회지, 20(4), pp.571~578 (2009), 한국지역사회생활과학회
  5. Kim, S. M., "Korea fashion brand annual 2014", 2015, 2014
  6. "7차 인체치수 조사" (2015)[URL]
  7. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, "KS K 0051 Sizing systems for female adult’s garments", Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, ~ (2019)
  8. 이미숙, "국내 의류 업체의 바지 그레이딩 실태 조사", 한국의류산업학회지, 11(6), pp.896~903 (2009), 한국의류산업학회
  9. Nam, Y. R., "Development of tailored jacket pattern for the down-aging, middle-aged woman", doctoral, pp.2017
  10. 손부현, "중년 여성 의복용 치수조합 및 그레이딩 편차설정에 관한 연구", 한국생활과학회지, 14(1), pp.107~117 (2005), 한국생활과학회

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