Eating Ethnic: “Culinary Tourism” and “Food Pornography” in Kitchen Chinese
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According to Wenying Xu, Asian American literature abounds in culinary metaphors and references (8); subsequently, a growing number of critics have begun to recognize that food “feeds into the literary rendering of Asian American subjectivity [and] provides a language through which to imagine Asian alterity in the American imagination” (Mannur 13). Ann Mah’s Kitchen Chinese: A Novel about Food, Family, and Finding Yourself (2010) is yet another text within which to investigate how food “operates as one of the key cultural signs that structure people’s identities” (Xu 2). Even as Kitchen Chinese insists on underscoring that Chinese food, as much as the voyage to her “motherland” China, is critical to protagonist Isabelle’s quest to gain a better understanding of herself, we are able to observe how Isabelle exploits Chinese culture and its foodways as “food pornography” in order to align herself with mainstream America. Needless to say, the novels’ relegation of Chinese food as “food porn” is problematic in that it encourages readers to participate in the exoticization of Asia and its culture, and the reduction of its people as the other. Ultimately, this essay aims to consider how the consumption and rejection of food becomes a critical means by which the Asian American subject fashions her identity.
Abstract
According to Wenying Xu, Asian American literature abounds in culinary metaphors and references (8); subsequently, a growing number of critics have begun to recognize that food “feeds into the literary rendering of Asian American subjectivity [and] provides a language through which to imagine Asian alterity in the American imagination” (Mannur 13). Ann Mah’s Kitchen Chinese: A Novel about Food, Family, and Finding Yourself (2010) is yet another text within which to investigate how food “operates as one of the key cultural signs that structure people’s identities” (Xu 2). Even as Kitchen Chinese insists on underscoring that Chinese food, as much as the voyage to her “motherland” China, is critical to protagonist Isabelle’s quest to gain a better understanding of herself, we are able to observe how Isabelle exploits Chinese culture and its foodways as “food pornography” in order to align herself with mainstream America. Needless to say, the novels’ relegation of Chinese food as “food porn” is problematic in that it encourages readers to participate in the exoticization of Asia and its culture, and the reduction of its people as the other. Ultimately, this essay aims to consider how the consumption and rejection of food becomes a critical means by which the Asian American subject fashions her identity.
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