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범용 파랑·흐름 공존시의 비점착성 퇴적물이동 예측식

A General Formula of Total Sediment Transport Rate for Waves and Currents

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초록

파랑과 흐름이 공존하는 해안에서의 비점착성 퇴적물이동에 대하여 육지-외해방향 총 퇴적물 이동률을 산정할 수 있는 경험식을 제안한다. 본 경험식은 파랑만 존재하는 경우와 흐름만 존재하는 경우에도 범용적으로 사용할 수 있다. 해수면 기준 비대칭인 파랑을 이용하여 퇴적물의 부상률과 이동거리의 곱으로 단위면적당 총 퇴적물 이동률을 계산할 수 있다. 대체로 파고가 큰 파랑이 입사하는 경우 퇴적물은 외해방향으로 이동하는 반면 파고가 작은 파랑의 경우 육지방향으로 퇴적물을 이동시키는 경향을 본 예측식이 잘 재현하고 있다. 또한 장주기 파랑의 경우 퇴적물을 육지방향으로 이동시키려는 경향을 본 예측식이 잘 보여준다.

Abstract

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

참고문헌 (20)

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