Effect of Processing Conditions on the Homogeneity of Partially Degummed Silk Evaluated by FTIR Spectroscopy
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초록
The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers’ attention because of itsability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softnessof fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partiallydegummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character ofsericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the presentstudy, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR)geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming ofsilk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase withthe degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated bythe variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity ofdegumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and theliquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at thesame total degumming time.
Abstract
The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers’ attention because of itsability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softnessof fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partiallydegummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character ofsericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the presentstudy, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR)geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming ofsilk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase withthe degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated bythe variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity ofdegumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and theliquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at thesame total degumming time.
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