근육형 남성용 재킷 패턴설계

Abstract

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371×chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.