고스 하위문화 스타일의 미적 특성
Aesthetics of Goth as a subculture style
2
조회
0
다운로드
6
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.
Abstract
Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.
참고문헌 (36)
- Hodkinson, P., "Goth: Identity, style and subculture", pp.62~63 (2002), Berg
- Goodlad, L., "Goth: Undead subculture", pp.4~ (2007), Duke University Press
- "Twilight fans flock for vampire fangs" (2010)[URL]
- 안현주, "국내 패션에 나타난 고스 스타일 특성", 복식문화연구, 17(4), pp.626~639 (2009), 복식문화학회
- 김고운, "패션 일러스트레이션에 표현된 고스이미지에 대한 연구", 한국패션디자인학회지, 6(2), pp.77~91 (2006), 한국패션디자인학회
- 김선경, "현대 패션쇼에 나타난 고스메이크업 연구", 한국인체미용예술학회지, 12(1), pp.85~99 (2011), 한국인체미용예술학회
- 최정화, "현대 패션에 나타난 고스(goth) 이미지의 미적 특성", 한국의류산업학회지, 7(2), pp.153~161 (2005), 한국의류산업학회
- 이유경, "오뜨 고스(Haute Goth) 패션에 대한 연구", 한국의상디자인학회지, 13(4), pp.127~138 (2011), 한국의상디자인학회
- Winge, T. M., "Body style", pp.2~ (2012), Berg
- Gelder, K., "The subcultures reader", pp.404~ (1997), Routledge
- Hebdige, D., "Subculture: The meaning of style", pp.128~130 (1995), Routledge
- 임은혁, "1990년대 하위문화 스타일에 관한 연구", 복식, 53(3), pp.13~30 (2003), 한국복식학회
- Spooner, C., "Contemporary Gothic", pp.12~13 (2007), Reaktion Books
- Voltaire, "What is goth?", pp.10~ (2004), Weiser Books
- Hervey, B., "Contemporary horror cinema, In The Routledge companion to Gothic", pp.234~ (2007), Routledge
- Siegel, C., "Goth's dark empire", pp.157~ (2005), Indiana University press
- Brill, D., "Goth culture: Gender, sexuality and style", pp.10~ (2008), Berg
- Wilson, E., "Fashion and postmodern body, In Chic thrills: A fashion reader", pp.6~ (1992), University of California Press
- Sedgwick, E., "The coherence of Gothic convention", pp.36~ (1986), Routledge Kegan & Paul
- McNeil, P., "Extended review: Le Steele Gothique", Fashion Theory, 14(4), pp.514~ (2010)
- Polhemus, T., "Street style: From sidewalk to catwalk", pp.97~99 (1994), Thames and Hudson
- Hollander, A., "Seeing through clothes", pp.365~377 (1993), University of California Press
- Baddeley, G., "Goth chic: A connoisseur's guide to dark culture", pp.241~ (2006), Plexus
- Steele, V., "Gothic: Dark glamour", pp.23~ (2008), Yale University Press
- Williamson, M., "Vampires and Goths: Fandom, gender and cult dress, In Dressed to impress", pp.149~ (2001), Berg
- Wilson, E., "Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity", pp.183~ (1985), Virago Press
- De La Haye, A., "Sourfer, soulies, skinheads, & skaters" (1996), The Overlook Press
- Wright, L., "Objectifying gender: the stiletto heel, In A view from the interior: Women and design", pp.16~ (1995), The Women's Press
