An Analysis on the Morphological Relationship of Hair Styles with Changes in Necklines and Collars: From 16th Century to 19th Century
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This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar,and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting therepresentative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selectedby fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder,head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by ateam of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated intoaverage. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into agraph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to thewidth and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inverselyproportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hairstyle. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those ofneckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional tothe hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collarwere proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar wereinversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationshipamong neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change ofthe hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, thewidth of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those ofneckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was moreresistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting theirfrequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of widthshowed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair styleevolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.
Abstract
This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar,and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting therepresentative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selectedby fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder,head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by ateam of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated intoaverage. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into agraph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to thewidth and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inverselyproportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hairstyle. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those ofneckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional tothe hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collarwere proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar wereinversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationshipamong neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change ofthe hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, thewidth of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those ofneckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was moreresistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting theirfrequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of widthshowed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair styleevolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.
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