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베지터블 가죽의 락 염색 후 가지처리 효과

The Effect of Oiling on Vegetable Leather Dyed with Lac

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초록

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ≥non mordant.

Abstract

This paper investigated to the effectiveness of an eco-friendly method for oiling cow leather. After leather was lac-dyed with a vegetable leather processing solution and a mordant, olive oil was used to treat the leather. Changes in surface color and dyeability, light fastness, rubbing fastness, and water fastness were measured. An increase in dyeability caused by the mordant appeared in all the samples. The dyeability of leatger treated with Cu-mordant was higher than that treated with Fe-mordant and Al-mordant, and the three times greater than when no mordant was used. Dyeability after oiling more than doubled compare with before oiling. An increase in dyeability by oiling was highe greater than doubled compared with before oiling. The non-mordant-treated samples exhibited a 5-fold increase in dyeability, and the other samples showed more than two times more dyeability than did non-oiled samples. A color difference of more than 20.0-fold appeared in all samples, and the differences in lightness and chroma were greater than were the differences in other color factors. The colors after oiling were measured R, P, and PB. Light fastness improved in all samples after oiling, and all of the measurements were reduced in the order of Fe-mordant> Cu-mordant> Al-mordant ≥non mordant.

참고문헌 (13)

  1. 배상경, "우피에서의 락(Lac)염료 염색 및 매염효과", 패션 비즈니스, 17(4), pp.140~148 (2013), 한국패션비즈니스학회[DOI]
  2. 조성교, "황련을 이용한 돈피 염색에 관한 연구", Family and Environment Research, 47(1), pp.85~91 (2009), 대한가정학회
  3. 조성교, "황련염색 피혁물의 가지처리에 관한 연구: 우피의 염색성과 가지처리에 의한 물성 변화에 관하여", Family and Environment Research, 50(2), pp.85~92 (2012), 대한가정학회[DOI]
  4. 조영주, "지속 가능한 소재로서의 가죽 활용 사례연구", 기초조형학연구, 16(2), pp.445~457 (2015), 한국기초조형학회
  5. 김선영, "현대 패션에 나타난 가죽의 표현 기법과 특성", 복식문화연구, 19(1), pp.71~82 (2011), 복식문화학회
  6. Kim, W., "피혁과 환경" (2006), Adbooks
  7. "Amor fati" (2016)[URL]
  8. Lee, S., "A study on the eco-dyeing of leather using natural dyes", doctor, pp.2012
  9. 이상철, "Marbling 기법을 응용한 천연가죽의 디자인 연구(Ⅰ)", 한국염색가공학회지, 20(1), pp.1~7 (2008), 한국염색가공학회
  10. 이기택, "유통 압착올리브유의 이화학적인 특성", 한국식품영양과학회지, 36(7), pp.866~873 (2007), 한국식품영양과학회
  11. 오윤정, "소비자의 라이프스타일 유형에 따른 가죽의류 평가기준", 한국의류학회지, 28(3,4), pp.433~443 (2004), 한국의류학회
  12. Song, G., "피혁과모피의 과학" (1992), Sunjin publisher
  13. "Hevitz" (2015)[URL]

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